My johnsoni pair spawns several times a week. This has been going on for months now. It happens every evening; the male goes into nuptial display around 9:30. This is at the end of the ramp down of the whites, which shut off at 9:30 and then it's all blues until they ramp down and off at 10:30. The male will be in nuptial display for up to an hour. While he courts the female every night, she generally complies and does the dance with him, but she isn't able to produce eggs every day, and never on consecutive days. So some days are just a "dry run" it seems.

However, last night I was finally watching AND recording at the right time. Take a look. You'll note the rhomboid come over and wait for the feast when the pair start their routine. Then him and the male johnsoni are clearly eating eggs from the water column. I don't think the male
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Time to build some boats!


3D model:
http://algaescrubber.net/SURF-Sketchup.skp





The LED lid is much better because it blocks light and sound from getting out, but the CFL will at least get it started.

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I thought I'd share this because I know temperature control is a big part of keeping an aquarium. This was something I put together for my 8 gal. NUVO. It isn't difficult to make and some of you may have already done it.

Needed:
Computer Fan (old or new)
Wire Stripper/Crimper
Dolphin Crimps (or any type of wire crimp)
Power Adapter (I used a cell phone charger)

Cut the end off both the power adapter and the computer fan. Both will have a terminal on it which was used to plug into the motherboard, and the cell phone. After you cut both terminals off, strip about 1/4" of all the wires. Most computer fans will have a third wire which is for the remote and is not needed in this setup. If you are unsure which wire is the remote you can strip all three and use trial and error to determine which wires to crimp. After stripping all the wires, connect the fan wires to the power cord wires and twist them together. Then crimp the
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Hi all,
Some may have read my other thread referring to adding bio pellets and reactor, the reactor i have is the older bubble magus 100, its 100mm wide, i added 150/200 ml of bio pellets and the supplied pump just did not do anything other then move a 1" circle of pellets barely in the middle, pump is a 600 lph atman, so instead of buying a new reactor i thought i would mod it using the cone method, i had no perspex lying around so i used the next best thing a 2 litre coke bottle, and i must say i'm very pleased with the outcome, check out the pics and video and let me know if the end result tumble is sufficient.

Original reactor & Pellets


Atman pump, no other
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Do you have bubbling and/ or splashing noises from the water entering your sump, have you tried almost everything. Here is something that you may have never heard of. It's called a Reverse Durso. It was introduced to me from a Mr. Todd_Sails (username). Since my introduction to this DIY silencer my sump has been free of bubbling or splashing noises.

The Reverse Durso is exactly what the name implies. It is a Durso standpipe that is used upside down and installed directly above the sump to quiet the bubbling and splashing noise caused by water entering the sump. The concept is to allow the air to escape prior to the water entering the sump allowing for a smooth and quiet exit.
I did my research and looked at pictures and this is how I built mine. It is very simple to construct. It is preferable to oversize the piping for example. If you have 1" plumbing then the piping for the Reverse Durso should be 1 1/4"+.

My plumbing is 1" and my
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