Working out the kinks in my sump (220G build)

Discussion in 'Filters, Pumps, etc..' started by joeyo, Nov 7, 2016.

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  1. joeyo

    joeyo Plankton

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    Hey Reefers,

    I'm in need of some help as I am in the final steps of my 220G build and having some flow issues on day one.
    I self drilled my 220 All Glass Tank. I'm using a Glass Holes 3000 overflow box which has two 2" bulkheads for overflow and two 3/4" returns. My pump is a Fluval Sea SP6 with a 1 1/4" output and return. I bumped those up to 1 1/2" all the way, except where I had to reduce it down to a 3/4" at the 90 for the loc-line return as I wanted the return in the tank via bulkhead.

    My goal was to reduce friction, keep a high rate of flow but unfortunately, the returns and overflows seem weak overall. I also included pix of the plumbing from the back side of the tank for additional insight to the design. Let me know if you have any idea as to what the problem might be.


    I had a gasket leak as well, so I had to also drain half the tank to address that. Hopefully, someone might also have some insight as to something I did incorrectly? Or if the return plumbing was to large for the pump? Its supposed to do 3434 GPH at its best, my return PVC run is not that long maybe 12' overall with a 4' height included in that 12' run. Hopefully the pictures will explain further.

    Thanks, Joe
     

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  3. joeyo

    joeyo Plankton

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  4. civiccars2003

    civiccars2003 Great Blue Whale

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    I am not very good when it comes to plumbing. My 220 has two columns each has a 1.5" drain and a 1.25" return line I believe. I run a Danner Supreme Mag 9.5 return pump. Head height is 4-5 feet maybe. Here is my build thread if it helps. http://www.3reef.com/showcase/220-gallons-of-eye-candy.2/
     
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  5. DSC reef

    DSC reef Giant Squid

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    Im not familiar with that pumps gph at x-amount of head height but from the pics it looks as if you have 2 returns so you might be better off with 1 pump for each return. It takes quite a bit of pressure to move water through all that pvc.
     
  6. civiccars2003

    civiccars2003 Great Blue Whale

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    I wouldn't do separate pumps for each return. I'd reduce the pipe size. You can put a valve on one of the lines to level the flow when entering your DT.
     
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  7. joeyo

    joeyo Plankton

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    Sorry for the late update. As I had mentioned in my initial post, I had a gasket leak that needed to be addressed as well. I had to drain 1/3 of the tank water so I could address the issue of the gasket as well as look further into the return water pressure issue. I learned that their was in fact an air pocket trapped in a pipe that I had connected into the pumps intake. I did this so the pump would not create suction noise (as it was) and in doing so I put a 90 facing down into the sump water and it had an air pocket. This was in fact the issue, no solved.

    However, the fun didn't stop there! I noticed a leak from one of the pipes and had to drain the tank a third time to repair that issue. Filled it up again and noticed a leak from somewhere else and then I noticed that the PVC pipe I had used, was one from my garage that had been laying around and I was like "cool, I already have some pvc!" Wrong!! it was for air/gas only, not for pressure and that caused these leaks!

    That really brought me down on this project, but I was persistent in figuring it all out. My wife wasn't to thrilled to keep hearing me discuss my findings each night, she's about done with this whole thing - but i think she still loves me.

    Anyway, Its up and running, I've tested out the heaters, lighting, I just put in pool filter sand and waiting for that to calm down. I have a vacation starting tomorrow and will be away for a week. I hope the sand storm subsides by then so I can cycle the tank. its been 3 whole days using a mechanical filter and its barely made a difference. So no pumps just calm settling over the next 7 days! Thank god I won't be home to look at it, I would probably try some unorthodox method and make matters worse! This is fun right!?
     
    Last edited: Nov 17, 2016
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  9. Rpratt

    Rpratt Astrea Snail

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    If you wanna boost your flow before cycling, Anytime you have to reduce the pipe down do it from a split.

    Ex. You have to go to 3/4" for the loc line you should drop to 3/4" from the T coming out the back. 1.5" in and two 3/4" out.

    This will reduce the water pressure to push. From the T to the bulkhead having bigger pipe just adds weight in the line and reduces the GPH on the output.

    Also at the bottom corners if you do 2x 45s instead of a 90 you will reduce friction and increase flow.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
    Last edited: Dec 27, 2016
  10. Rpratt

    Rpratt Astrea Snail

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    Looking more I do hope the valves on the drains are wide open. If there is any obstruction in either pipe it will overflow, while this is not common if well maintained it is not uncommon either. Now if you run both at the same height and only use one valve to close to reduce noise leave the second valve open it will allow a full siphon if #1 becomes plugged and that would be ok.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  11. Swisswiss

    Swisswiss Caribbean Reef Squid

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    hahahaha all valuable lessons you'll be able to transmit to the next person keep it up!.....

    P.s BTW....the general consensus on bioballs is that they do more harm than good
     
  12. Todd_Sails

    Todd_Sails Giant Squid

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    Hey there, haven't been on this forum in a while, so take my suggestions with a grain of salt.


    And Welcome to 3 Reef.

    I looked at the pictures- and thought wt-.....?

    Have you searched some threads on this and other sites regarding overflows, sumps, etc.?

    Someone is still selling Bioballs and a wet/dry filter? Wow.

    That overflow is a major headache/disaster waiting to happen.

    The way I saw it, both pipes were at the same level? then stick a 90 in the one that you're oging to make you full siphon;
    the opening ongf the 90 should stay underwater all the time in the overflow. The other side should have a vent hole drilled in the top, with a tube/tubing bent back over into the top of the overflow. So when the water rises too high in the overlfow, the airline goes underwater and lets the 2nd drain run at full siphon- quickly lowering the water level and preventing an overflow of your DT.

    The second line should NOT have a valve at all, or, it should NEVER be closed.

    I could go on, but if you looked at my build thread on my 180DT- I'm using a similar set up- 2 x 1.5" bulheads- and it is completely silent too!

    About the other stuff, well, starting over would be my advice, redoing many things, getting rid of that wet/dry and bioballs- they still sell those?


    good luck, I hope you don't get a wet floor, etc.

    Edit, - since you only have 2 holes out the overflow/back of the tank- check out my build thread on how I have my true coast to coast overflow, using only 2 holes. to perform like a 3 drain Bean Animal type drain. When done right, it is fail safe, and will qucikly self restart the siphon drain without touching it in a power out/power off.
    If you put 90's facing down on bulkheads, it will eliminate the noise.
    HOWEVER- when the second side needs to run full siphon to prevent disaster- if there is no vent hole to get rid of the air pocket it has it it, it will overflow and you will be mopping up water!
     
    Last edited: Dec 28, 2016