Non drilled tank alternatives- My DIY overflow...

I know what a hob overflow is. U aren't getting it. I mean I would run hob skimmer, and hob filters, or drill the tank. No way I'm relying on a single siphon to carry water over the edge of my tank and put it in the sump. I personally don't understand what the cost of your house has to do with anything, or what your drilled tank has to do with anything. Nobody wants water on their floor period. It's great that yours hasn't failed. But the Fact is, it's still a risk. I ran a bean animal for years. And the siphon drain got clogged on more than one occasion due to snails or algae die off, but it didn't matter because there were 2 backup drains to handle it. Where is your backup?

 

Insane... First, I want to apologize as my last reply was a bit over the top.

To cut to the chase- yes, it's still a risk!
Please skim over my thread about my method of 'backup'.
I searched for weeks for a sensor that would reliably shut down my return pump when the DT got 'too high'- Without a controller. I found it, and it works great- I only know by repeated tests, and my big Blue Tang splashed it once also.
http://www.3reef.com/forums/filters-pumps-etc/dt-overflow-preventer-134476.html

 

$75 for a cut off switch? There has to be a cheaper way.

 

That's what I was saying!!

If you already have a controller- (I don't), you can get the proper sensors for that for less maybe.

This product is well built, and works! It's plug and play!

It was cheap insurance against flooding my Family Room- it took we a few weeks to actually purchase it b/c it was so much for what seems to be a simple product.- Luckily, I had not had a flood, but believe in Murphys Laws!!!

However, if you find plug and play electrical RP cut off, with a reliable sensor for less.
Awesome- post the link!
I certainly don't sell these, etc.
When I got mine, it was the least exspensive/highest quality.

It's all about helping others accomplish things in the hobby.
That's why I shared the one I found, and how well it works!
Find others a similar product for less money, and share away!

 

I used to work with water tanks, pumps, cutoff switches, controllers, etc.

I think I can just wire a small float switch in the sump to cutoff the pump when it gets to low, used to do this all the time. Shouldn't cost more than $15.

 

And I"m sure you could. I wanted one that actually cut it off when the DT was TOO HIGH, pending an overflow.
Depending on how your system is set up, that may work from preventing a flood also.

What I like about mine is it's hidden, and senses when the DT is too high, that's what my system needed.
The too low thing is also dependent on a reliable ATO, etc.- but I'm sure it would work too.

 

great design and i love DIY. Do you have any idea of the volume it's pulling? Reason I'm asking is I want to make two of these (one for either corner of my new 220g). I need to figure out volume being removed to match a pair of pumps coming back into the DT.

Thanks

 

Yes, when I stand sumped, it was running at least 800gph,
and now the same pump im my basement I did measure the output back to the sump, and is was like 460gph.

My current one is 1.5inches, and there is a few rounded corner bends, not sure what the max flow would be- A lot however.

Why not just drill the 220? This is a great alternative, with lots of surface skimming.
However, I getting a 180 together, and it's drilled with a true 6ft long Coast to coast overflow.

Ask here and/or PM me and I'll hwlp any way I can. I feel I am very knowledgeable about this subject.

Here's a current pic of my 125 running my overflow:

 

the 220 is all tempered glass. I got it for next to nothing of Craig's list. So a sacrifice there. I just want to make sure that i match my pumps with my overflows (dont want any floods)

So i'm looking at doing 2 of your setups (one in each corner) and the 2 return pumps. Will take any suggestions on pumps also (brand & Model).

I'm moving the tank in to the office today on the new stand i just built so it's moving along pretty good now.

 

Sounds great!
Review my DIY overflow thread, a hack saw, PVC pipe and fittings, pipe prepper and glue, and have at it!

As far as the Return pump goes-
The only rule you will need to avoid an overflow, is that the returns MUST be able to handle more flow than your return pump can put out!
The water level in you DT will always be at the level of the intank overflow- which is about the level of the bottom of the upper trim on the tank.
I'm conclude that you are going to use a stand sump- not a basement sump? This equals less head height.
You'll still need a farily large pump.
Then decide on internal (submersible), or esternal.
Then, I suggest some bypasses in the return line for any reactors, a line for water changes, etc.
Put a valve in the return to the tank also, so yhou can adjust the flow some- this actually makes the pukmp work LESS hard and use LESS energy/watts than full flow- just make sure the overflows can still handle full flow.

And if you plan on 2 seperate overflows?- This is often done making sure that 1 overflow will handle all the return in case 1 quits/clogs.

If both retruns clog or quit- in most cases- you'll have a very wet and nasty office floor!
This too can be completely avoided by two ways!
1. If the overflows clog/quit- your section in the sump for the retrun pump will not have enough volume to overflow your DT- If left long enough- you risk burning up the pump- Way cheaper and easier than a big overflow!
2. This is a device, that you need no controllers or floats or transducers.
It's plug and play.
The Real danger of an overflow, is the DT itself getting too high, and overflowing.
This is a sensor that shuts down the return pump plugged in to it instantly when the senor touchs water.
Thankfully, I've only had to test it as my DIY overflow has not stopped it's siphon.
http://www.3reef.com/forums/filters-pumps-etc/dt-overflow-preventer-134476.html