Windex Prevention

Discussion in 'LED Aquarium Lighting' started by WhiskyTango, Mar 19, 2014.

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  1. WhiskyTango

    WhiskyTango Eyelash Blennie

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    Yea, good information, thanks. I pretty much know all of this, its just hard to pull the trigger on a custom fixture without seeing it first. Kessil, if you are listening, how about a controllable tuna Blue A150W......

    I plan on keeping some ornamental macro and sea grass in the DT, so the 660 is important for me.

    Out of cyan, green, yellow, and amber, which are the most important for pigmentation excitation?
     
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  3. Kevin_E

    Kevin_E Giant Squid

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    QUOTE=WhiskyTango;1540584]Yea, good information, thanks. I pretty much know all of this, its just hard to pull the trigger on a custom fixture without seeing it first. Kessil, if you are listening, how about a controllable tuna Blue A150W......

    I plan on keeping some ornamental macro and sea grass in the DT, so the 660 is important for me.

    Out of cyan, green, yellow, and amber, which are the most important for pigmentation excitation?[/QUOTE]

    For excitation of proteins, most coral respond to the violet/blue nm range.

    cyan, with a 490-520 nm range, is important to achieving full spectrum and optimal color from your coral, not just fluorescence. There's a peak in the red area (minimal), but the whites should cover that for you.

    Green is reflected by plants/coral etc. That's why leaves appear green to us.
     

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  4. Kevin_E

    Kevin_E Giant Squid

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  5. WhiskyTango

    WhiskyTango Eyelash Blennie

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    Right, so 3500k WW should do the trick for red?


    How so? You don't feel a stand alone red diode is necessary because a warm white will cover the small red peak?
     
  6. Kevin_E

    Kevin_E Giant Squid

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    It overpowers everything else. Plus, I don't feel that adding just one will accomplish much.
     
  7. WhiskyTango

    WhiskyTango Eyelash Blennie

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    Roger that.