Will this setup work? Advice on Improvements?

Discussion in 'New To The Hobby' started by oside, Aug 3, 2004.

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  1. oside

    oside Astrea Snail

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    OK, this should give a better idea of what I'm trying to put together (more to scale). I've also incorporated the closed loop skimmer setup as recomended.
    Oh, the big tube coming from the main overflow is for bioballs/etc.


    Cabinet & tanks (blue colors are the tanks - not solid models)
    [​IMG]

    Plumbing (no cabinets)
    [​IMG]


    Rear (all parts)

    [​IMG]

    My concern now that I've started the model is how to support the upper 'fuge above the main tank. Should I reinforce with metal? Would a metal frame be beneficial in this case?
    Matt B
     
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  3. dx7fd2

    dx7fd2 Sea Dragon

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    I am still digesting your diagram...is that done with a CAD program? ;)

    I wouldn't use a metal frame unless you have to. Are you going to nail, bolt, screw and glue or use some other type of fasteners to join the framework?

    How tall is the skimmer, and how tall is the bottom section of the stand that will house the hidden 'fuge.

    Oh, BTW, I have done cabinet work on a limited basis, and also framing and construction, so I do have a working knowledge of woodworking and finish carpentry.

    Make sure you leave enough room between the upper 'fuge and the display tank to fool around with the lighting!!

    Is that a plenum I see in the main tank...if so you might want to check out the thread under the Sand Forum called Controlled Plenum Wasting. Some interesting stuff there!!

    Drew
     
  4. beamer

    beamer Sea Dragon

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    Wow! :eek: That's really impressive! Surely is way over my head, but then that doesn't really take much at this point. ::)

    Cindy
     
  5. dx7fd2

    dx7fd2 Sea Dragon

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    BTW, Matt, that is going to be a very sharp looking set-up..I applaude your ingenuity!!

    Say, Cindy, did you ever solve your Air Conditioning problem? I remember you were having rust out problems weren't you?

    Drew
     
  6. beamer

    beamer Sea Dragon

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    No, I still need to move the tank down the wall. I'm not sure how much that will really help but at least the return won't be sucking in the salt directly as it is now. I'm trying to decide what all I want added to my tank so that when I bring in my tank guy it can do it all at once. He'll have to reroute my ro'di tubing to the sump plus I'm having someone build me a new sump. It may be a couple of weeks till they can get started on it. Hopefully he'll let me know in the next day or two the approx. date. I also want to get an in-line chiller. We are thinking of maybe having it installed outside rather than have the heat in the house. This tank guy would be able to figure out a way to do that. He's a handman of all sorts. I need to decide on what sand I'm going to use and get that ordered. I'll be having to replace my whole sand bed. The other one,since moving, has given my tank chemistry all sorts of heck. There's a few other electical things that I want set up so I'm trying to get my decisions made, get the stuff ordered and then get it all done and taken care of at one time. Meanwhile I have a Filterete filter sitting in front of the air return to minimize the rusting plus I have put a towel over the sump. It seems to bubble and pop a lot and I'm sure that's where the spray has been coming from. The filter that I use in my AC unit is starting to rust as well as one or 2 parts of the unit so I've got to hurry and get this taken care of. So that's where I stand right now.

    Thanks for asking!

    Cindy
     
  7. Craig Manoukian

    Craig Manoukian Giant Squid

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    Very nice and well thought out setup!

    Great advice everyone!

    I suggest using live rock rubble in place of the bioballs to eliminate additional nitrates. All you need is some liverock and a hammerand you can fashion bioall sized rubble.
     
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  9. oside

    oside Astrea Snail

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    Drew -

    1) I am using a modeling program called Rhinoceros. It helps me to get a scaled image of what it will look like.

    2) I will use mostly screws & some plate joiners & brackets also. I am using a 4x4 for the central brace now (per advice from a carpenter/friend).

    3) The skimmer height is undetermined. I am still reading/researching all the DIY threads online & will make one. YBTW - yours is very nice !

    4) The bottom section is 30" between the floors, the lower 'fuge is 15" tall.

    5) I have read that thread & if you look closely you can see that I have bulkheads plumbed through the overflow for the option of using a powerhead to "clean out" the plenum space  ;D

    There is 12" above the main tank for lighting. Will I need to allow for more space than this?  I have an extra PCpower supply & a bunch of 12v pc fans that I can use for heat removal / air circulation inside the cabinet.

    Craig - Change from Bioballs to crushed LR noted. Thanks for the advice :)

    Again, I'm just trying to make sure that I set this up correctly & while I won't be able to get all the bells & whistles right off the bat, I do want to make sure there is room for later add-ons (RO/DI setup, etc).

    One more question - will I need to coat the inside of the cabinet with some sort of waterproofing epoxy paint in order to prevent the wood from rotting? I do plan on covering the floors with plastic, but if the paint/epoxy/sealant is better I will plan on using that...
     
  10. dx7fd2

    dx7fd2 Sea Dragon

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    If you are using exterior grade plywood I wouldn't worry about it. I used epoxy to do the inside of my plywood tank, it is some nasty stuff. When it dries, though, it is like glass and very waterproof. If I do another plywood tank (I am sure I will sometime) I am going to line it with either acrylite or FRP to avoid the epoxy. Epoxy is expensive at $97 for a 2 gallon kit. It does go a long way though so make sure you have plenty of projects to use it up as the shelf life is about a year.(garage floors, basement floors etc.) ;)

    I try to use Gorilla brand glue at any joints that I know I will not be trying to take apart. It is 100% waterproof, and very strong.

    I think you have this project licked Matt, and plenty of open area to move things around and try different things. ;D
     
  11. Craig Manoukian

    Craig Manoukian Giant Squid

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  12. oside

    oside Astrea Snail

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    Dx - Might want to contact the mfr to be sure, but most epoxies can be refrigerated to maximize shelf life. My ex used to "love" opening the 'fridge & finding cans of epoxy/paint :p
    Matt B