Discussion in 'I made this!' started by Robman, Mar 18, 2010.
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very cool build
fyi ur aqua scaping looks amazing
I just read through this thread, I really liked all the pictures and your attention to detail. You do great work.. I really can't wait to see this baby on your tank.. Great work my friend!
That's right. Wattage/Voltage=Amperage. If the ballasts have a listed wattage, you'd use that figure. If not, you'd use the wattage of the bulbs.
Not a good idea. Electrical installations are sized according to load; and to save money. Never will you find a circuit oversized to accomodate more load. Contractors will do this to spend the least amount of money--not to be cheap, but to save the customer money while being code compliant. The breaker that serves an A/C unit on its own circuit is not oversized for any other devices. If you place another load on a dedicated circuit after the breaker, you'll trip the breaker whenever one device is running and the other comes one. If you place the load before the breaker, you run the risk of starting a fire.
Overloading a circuit is bad.
I haven't seen this thread until tonite. This is a beautiful build thread, Robman!! Great craftsmanship and forethought. Are those ballasts mounted inside the canopy? They appear to be. If so, you might consider mounting them remotely. It will create a lot less heat in the canopy, and lengthen the life of the ballast. Heat is the enemy to electric components. Ballasts already get fairly hot, although not as much with electronic ballasts.
As for the acclimation period, since varying the distance of the lights from the water isn't an option, varying the photoperiod will be fine. I don't have personal experience with times, but if you follow Otty's acclimation routine, you'll be fine. Just err on the side of not enough light, and your corals will let you know if they need more. If you err on the side of too much, they'll let you know also--but I don't have to tell you the damage is irreversible.
No Sparky...The Ballasts are mounted on top of the canopy, not inside. I have put my hand on the top of the wood, and it remains cool all the time. I have a small strip of 1/4" plywood between the reflectors and the surface of the top to create an airgap.
Good to hear. My preference is to house the ballasts in open air, away from any confined spaces. Of course, that's my opinion--and I have every confidence that you're doing things well.
Your canopy is beautiful. Your work rivals that of a carpenter! It's going to be sweet when you're done. Thanks for all the pics, and keep 'em coming.
Do I smell a "3 steps to my own lighting scheme?" video? (woodwork, componentry and wiring, and airflow?) (or something like that?)
I'd hate for you to complete this project, only to win first prize of a lighting fixture!
Now that would be funny....
I too agree with you Sparky, this would be a good video entry
Canopy is on the tank!!! A little dissapointed that the top and bottom are a little different in color. I used the same can of stain and same can of laquer. The bottom was stained Cherry before I owned it, and even though I sanded the **** out of it I think that is where the difference lies. Not too bad, I can live with it. It was alot of work putting this thing up there. Wife had to route all the wires through the back while my neighbor and I held it above the tank.
The good part is that it fit the tank absolutely PERFECT!!
After some initial tests of the Halides I found the center support glass was getting pretty hot. So I added a couple of 6 in fans to help cool it. I wanted the C-Breeze fans but they are 50.00 ea. I am outta cash. So these Wally World 9.00 fans will have to do!!
Initial tests and flaws!!
I hooked up the halides to see what needed to be tweeked.
I was getting alot of light from the door seams. (Something I said I would have to address earlier in this thread) That task was herder to solve than you would think. I tried foam tape, but that just made the door stay open further. I ended up with soft window seal, kinda like your fridge door seal. It is hollow inside and crushed as you close the door. They still did not close tight enough to seal out all the light, so I added magnets to pull the doors tight. That worked great. Here are the first pics. I will post the "Fixed"pics tonight after the lights come on.
Some interesting notes: My finger leather, who has looked bad for the last week or two, perked right up as soon as the lights came on. Seems as though the Leathers love the new light. I think the Xenia hates it though. It has looked weak for a few weeks. I think this will do it in. I want it gone anyway , so I can clear the top for Acros and Montis!!!
I re-routed all the cords and wiring while I had it apart. BIG difference behind the tank. No more spaghetti!!!. I brought all the timers to the side. I like having easy access to all the lighting timers. Left to right Halides, Actinics, Moonlights, and Refugium.
Ok Steve. Here is before and after...Unfortunately I think my camera maxes out at a certain point. I am here to tell you, it is a HUGE HUGE difference. Not so much in the pics
This pic while I was testing shows more of the difference. You can see the tank in the backround, and both canopies lit at the same time.
After 3x400w Metal Halides
As I said, The pics do it no justice...The difference is incredible. Also has the nice shimmer now!!
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