To goo to be true?

Discussion in 'Reef Lighting' started by JPfish, Jul 15, 2002.

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  1. JPfish

    JPfish Astrea Snail

    Joined:
    Jul 9, 2002
    Messages:
    56
    Location:
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    Starting out my 55gal the only hardware I'm missing (so i believe) is the lighting.

    I ran across this ad:
    3 month old, perfect working condition 48" Custom Sea Life Smartlite Power Compact retrofit with 2x65 watt 50/50 bulb which one side of each bulb is true blue and the other pure white. I am asking $150 (spent over $200) OBO.

    Is this the best option or should I go for the 48" 4X55W retro for $239 I saw on the internet?

    Which is more cost effective? ???
     
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  3. Matt Rogers

    Matt Rogers Kingfish Staff Member

    Joined:
    Dec 31, 2000
    Messages:
    13,466
    Location:
    Berkeley, CA
    I would let the first one go.
    2.36 watts/gallon won't get you very far with saltwater.

    The 4X55 at least gets you into the ballpark of 5 watts/gallon, the old rule of thumb, and you should be able to maintain softies with that. So that is a decent option, esp. for someone starting out.

    Stonies will require even more light though closing in on 10 watts/gallon from what I have been seeing.

    Halide options on your tank could be:

    -one 250w halide
    -one fixture with two 150w halides
    -one fixture with two 250w halides

    *all of the above with supplemental actinic lighting either from reg. bulbs or VHO.

    if you need more help,

    let me know!
     
  4. Guest

    Guest Guest

    I would probably pass on the PC also unless you can supplement it with something else later. Check out www.garf.org for some great ideas on corals, reef setup, and lighting requirements. You might be surprised what you can grow with less than optimal lighting.
     
  5. Guest

    Guest Guest

    One other thing...the Emperor is a great filter...it will run forever and ever. Be sure, though, to keep a close check on the nitrate levels if you are going to use the bio-wheels. They are nitrate factories! Should you begin to have unwanted algae, this will likely be the culprit. Once the anoxic area in your live sand bed is established, nitrates should start down though :)