The Todd Mod for the Jabeo WP pumps!

Agree with all the above.

The housing seems to still be very sturdy with the fins removed.
The appears to be no change whatsoever on that.
The housing is a very large diameter, and the diameter does give it stability.

I would often brush the fins while it was running in the DT with my DT's toothbrush to help keep the fins cleaner, this is the first time I ever took them out.

 

My CC substrate is now getting blown to BB, even with the rubble, not aiming them down, etc.

 

I'm not sure how a koralia is worthless, when more people trust them over a Chinese knock off.

For that specific reason, I posted. Jebaos are typically run on a wave maker setting. this means constant ramping up, sometimes to full power. If you ever watch one ramping up in slow motion, you'll see the impeller doesnt just spin in place but is shot forward slamming against the front grille. I had my koralias on a hydor smartwave doing this every 10 seconds and after a week or so both front grills were shattered. I think the best way to look at it is, if the company could produce more flow out of their pumps, why wouldn't they? the structural support is there for a reason. That being said, if you only ramp them up to like 50% or something notably less than 100% it may not break. Guess we'll just have to find out.

yup. I'm interested to see if they'll hold up to going from stop to 100% many times a day.

I'm not trying to shoot down your mod, under the right conditions it can be amazing. I just think maybe you should wait a couple weeks to observe for any negative effects, especially before you tell other people to do it and potentially void their warrantee.

 

If the flow is going backwards, then the impellar and shaft would be pushing forward.
As the rpm/pressure/flow increase and moving fluid forward, - it drives it backwards into the body/housing more.
I am still trying to picture the front housing being 'rammed' by a propeller/impeller forcing fluid forward.

My experience with the Koralia's were that they worked OK at first, when you got the outer housing placed just right. But they are an A/C pump, and would more times then not restart backwards.
The K's front housing was/is much more 'flimsy' than the WP's. After I had several of them stop at random, and bumping them and them starting in reverse, I got fed up with that product- hence my assessment of it- it is only my own (and a few others I've seen posted).

I actually use one of the mode that never has the impeller stopping all the way, rather the W2 mode that ramps up to full and down very slow- gradually- over and over.

And we'll see.
Maybe in a few days, weeks, months, etc. it will have problems.
You can bet I'll post a follow up if/when it does.

There are many good products out there, and this thread is a mod on one of them.

 

Todd, are you still running the stock controller? I have been reading up on the Apex / ReefAngel mods out there lately for these pumps.

 

Ah of course, I knew that didn't make sense when I was typing it lol. koralias, as you may know have a tendency to start in reverse causing the impeller to jump forward, this is the "clicking" noise often associated with koralias on wavewakers that do hard starts/stops.

I guess in theory you should be fine then.

 

OK, my observations now.

Remember, I didn't spend anything on this 'mod', so that doesn't influence the observations.

There is no difference in what the housings are doing, no new noise, etc.

I have them about 2.5-3inches from the top, aimed down ever so slightly.
I now notice, every so often- 15+ min., it pulls a air vortex in, and quickly breaks it when the air hits the impeller.
My WP's are on the front of my C2C overflow, unless I put them on the sides, or on the back below the overflow, it's as low as it'll go.

This isn't a problem, in the time I logged in here and typed this, it's didn't pull the vertex down once. Opps- it just did, and it immediately breaks it too- the air vertex that is.

But, if you know you're have the pump a certain direction up most all the time,
Then I'd now recommend leaving the fins in on the top side, if it's anywhere near the top.

When I was using a Maxijet 1200 with power fan mod and had it on a hanger near the top, I had to put a piece of plastic on the top 1/4 to keep the vertex from forming.

All in all - Way more flow even when they were brand new!
It's obliterating all my Shallow CC bed in the front, about 4 feet from the pumps, on W2 mode.
The whole front middle is now BB again!

 

Fixed it! The air vortex that is.

I got a small piece of plastic, and wedged it under the bracket where it was pulling the vortex.
It's on the upper back, so you don't even see it.

Easy fix- a piece of an already used small plastic measuring cup- clear. I used the same piece for the top of my MJ pwer head, now I'm using about 1/2 of it in one area, no more vertex/pulling air and bubbles.

 

It probably was only pulling air when it was at max output and then stops as soon as it began its decrease. I bet if it had been 1/2 inch lower it would have not done that at all.

 

I'm sure you're right. It's as low as they can go when on the front of my C2C overflow.
It also allows the main blast to get over the top of the coral, not straight at it.