Taking the Rapid Plunge! (Light mounted with FTS!)

Discussion in 'LED Aquarium Lighting' started by insanespain, Sep 12, 2011.

to remove this notice and enjoy 3reef content with less ads. 3reef membership is free.

  1. exactlyobp

    exactlyobp Giant Squid

    Joined:
    Jan 24, 2011
    Messages:
    3,984
    Location:
    Cedar City UT
    Never super glue the optics. I used the leftover epoxy that I used for fixing the LED stars on the heatsink. Fumes from super glue will cover the LED.

    Looks awesome tho!!!!! How many drivers are you gonna go with?
     
  2. Click Here!

  3. exactlyobp

    exactlyobp Giant Squid

    Joined:
    Jan 24, 2011
    Messages:
    3,984
    Location:
    Cedar City UT
    I think he used this to attach the LEDs. So no drilling. Tapping/drilling the heatsink could be a PITA job.
     
  4. leighton1245

    leighton1245 Horrid Stonefish

    Joined:
    Oct 28, 2010
    Messages:
    2,081
    Nice thank you, im ordering mine this week :)
     
  5. insanespain

    insanespain Ocellaris Clown

    Joined:
    May 3, 2011
    Messages:
    1,479
    Location:
    Illinois
    Its just the standard 36 kit, so it comes with 3 drivers. Wiring it like this - 12rb, 12cw, 6rb & 6nw

    Sent from my DROID3 using Tapatalk
     
  6. leighton1245

    leighton1245 Horrid Stonefish

    Joined:
    Oct 28, 2010
    Messages:
    2,081
    What made you go with the CW and NW?
     
  7. DBOSHIBBY

    DBOSHIBBY Sleeper Shark

    Joined:
    Jul 27, 2009
    Messages:
    2,557
    Location:
    Detroit, MI
    oh man i cant wait to see that thing lit up. very different approach on the layout also. looking good so far.
     
  8. Click Here!

  9. insanespain

    insanespain Ocellaris Clown

    Joined:
    May 3, 2011
    Messages:
    1,479
    Location:
    Illinois
    I feel like the standard 50/50 of rb/cw gives the tank a sort of washed out look. The nw leds are a warmer light and should help reds not be so washed out. If you look at evolved's build he actually used warm whites which are even more yellow of a white than the nw's are. I believe the nw leds weren't out yet when he did his build.

    Sent from my DROID3 using Tapatalk
     
  10. insanespain

    insanespain Ocellaris Clown

    Joined:
    May 3, 2011
    Messages:
    1,479
    Location:
    Illinois
    Thanks man. The layout involved a lot of thinking and playing around. It is based on trying to get the most even coverage for each "channel" of lighting. We laid out the 12 leds for one driver to get the most even coverage over the tank, ignoring the placement of leds on the other drivers. This way each channel can be faded in or out and the tank should be balanced regardless of what intensity each channel is at, if that makes sense. Also the center brace was factored in the layout so that leds weren't positioned directly over the brace.

    Sent from my DROID3 using Tapatalk
     
  11. evolved

    evolved Wrasse Freak

    Joined:
    Feb 26, 2010
    Messages:
    4,257
    Location:
    Phoenix, AZ
    Looking good.

    I used Loctite-Stick-n-Seal to attach the optics. This was the glue of choice at that time. It won't permanently cement on the optics like the epoxy can. Super glue is NOT acceptable.

    Neutral whites were available for me; I went with warm whites intentionally as they have the largest spike in the red spectrum. I don't run them at a high power, just enough to make things look "good". However, my warm's are XR-E's; the color options in the XP series were not readily available at that time.
     
  12. insanespain

    insanespain Ocellaris Clown

    Joined:
    May 3, 2011
    Messages:
    1,479
    Location:
    Illinois
    Yeah, I just got to fire up the light earlier, and after I saw it in person I kinda wish I would've went with Warm Whites instead. The neutrals mix really well with the cool whites and almost get lost. But of course I havent had it over the tank yet. Getting ready to upload some pics now.