Taking the Rapid Plunge! (Light mounted with FTS!)

Discussion in 'LED Aquarium Lighting' started by insanespain, Sep 12, 2011.

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  1. insanespain

    insanespain Ocellaris Clown

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    The maximum led junction temp is 150 degrees celcius or 302 degrees farinheit. This is at the junction between the diode and the star board of course, and not actual heat sink temp. But if I can hold my hand on the bottom of the heat sink, I know its less than 120 degrees farinheit, which is plenty good enough. People tend to get carried away on cooling these things. Also just adding a fan sitting on top of the heat sink fins won't do a lot. To add fans effciently you would need to build a shroud to channel the airflow.

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  3. exactlyobp

    exactlyobp Giant Squid

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  4. leighton1245

    leighton1245 Horrid Stonefish

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    WOW!! i really like what you did with that fixture.
     
  5. insanespain

    insanespain Ocellaris Clown

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    Hung with FTS!

    Thanks for the compliments guys! What you've all been waiting for, FTS pics! I got the light hung after work today and I've spent the evening watching a movie and enjoying the tank. I got the Typhoon setup how I think I want it for now and I just enjoyed watching the tank fade down from full light to night time. The Royal Blues by themselves are CRAZY. This setup was well worth the time and effort, and it took my tank to a whole new level. Big thanks to RapidLED and BoostLED for making this so affordable to do. Anyone who doesn't believe in LED for reef lighting has never seen it in person!


    FTS

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    Actinic mode

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  6. exactlyobp

    exactlyobp Giant Squid

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    Holy batman!
    Thanks insane, I can go to sleep now (and Im gonna dream about it too). Again, great job!

    I was again shopping around, and I think Im set like this:
    -700mA (constant)
    Epi UV 4~6 (aquastyle UV LED)
    420nm UV 6
    -1.5A (dim)
    NW 12
    -1.5A (dim)
    CW 12
    -1.0A (dim)
    RB 9
    -1.0A (dim)
    B 6
    RB 3
    Total of 5 drivers. The first one (700mA) is constant current.
     
  7. insanespain

    insanespain Ocellaris Clown

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    I like it, but why not run 12 blues on each of the last two drivers?

    Oh and btw, I posted the pics tonight just for you lol. I knew I couldnt leave ya hangin
     
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  9. exactlyobp

    exactlyobp Giant Squid

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    Thanks brother, how considerate! LOL but seriously, thanks for the FTSs! They really made my night :)

    I dont know, I might just do 12 blues like you mentioned, who knows.
     
  10. exactlyobp

    exactlyobp Giant Squid

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    So how do you like the Typhoon? How does it work anyways? Too bad it's only for PWM..

    BTW, I ordered 6 of the 420nm LED just now. LOL
     
  11. Bustopher

    Bustopher Skunk Shrimp

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    PWM is better for LEDs anyways. I have been looking at the Typhoon also and was looking for user reviews.
     
  12. insanespain

    insanespain Ocellaris Clown

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    PWM or 10v analog doesn't matter either way. PWM isn't "better" for your leds, its just a matter of which type of input your drivers take on the dimming input.

    As far as the typhoon, its nice. I love watching the tank fade up and down gradually. It works great and its never affected by a power outage. It saves its settings and if power is interuppted during the lighting period, it returns to its exact spot with no problems. The price is great for what you get, and the unit is well made. One thing that I must mention about it is that there's basically no way to mount the thing. There are no spare holes in the board for mounting. Also the buttons are so close to the bottom of the screen that I couldn't think of a way to build an enclosure for it without covering them up. These are minor issues for me since I mounted it with a zip tie and I don't plan on building an enclosure or mounting it where its visible.

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