Switch back to Mh or are my LED's just not set right?

Discussion in 'LED Aquarium Lighting' started by jonathan9573, May 31, 2014.

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  1. jonathan9573

    jonathan9573 Spanish Shawl Nudibranch

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    I am running 28 royal blue XT-E, 14 cool white XP-G, 4 UV
    Screen Shot 2014-06-01 at 7.55.02 PM.png
     
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  3. jonathan9573

    jonathan9573 Spanish Shawl Nudibranch

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    Optics are 60 degree on the royal blue and 80 on the white. Changed to the 80 on the whites cause it seemed like i was getting a spot light affect with them
     
  4. FeedYourMachine

    FeedYourMachine Feather Duster

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    Treasure Lake PA
    I think switching your optics is a good start ..I also have all 80 degree ones on mine .
    How high from the surface is your panel/panels?
    Thant could also have an affect on your corals..
     
  5. DSC reef

    DSC reef Giant Squid

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    Thread says switch back to metal halide as a suggestion? Just gave my suggestion, go back to halides and be done. Like I said before, hope you get the tank right.
     
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  6. jonathan9573

    jonathan9573 Spanish Shawl Nudibranch

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    Well if I cant get these LEDs working like my Mh then I would be switching back to Mh. I would rather not but if thats what it comes too.........
     
  7. jonathan9573

    jonathan9573 Spanish Shawl Nudibranch

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    They are about 10 inches above the water
     
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  9. vtecintegra

    vtecintegra Fire Worm

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    Most of who I'd call experts strongly recommend neutral white instead of cool white. I run a few more UV (proper name violet), with both true violet in the the 405~410nm range and hyper violet 430nm. I'm going to be adding some ocean coral white (OCW) that are suppose to enhance colors. They have a blue, cyan, and red on one star. Might be worth a try. I've never felt the need to use optics. LEDs are around 120 degrees without any additional lenses. Gives me good spread and mixing.
     
  10. hart24601

    hart24601 Flamingo Tongue

    Joined:
    Dec 18, 2012
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    I would expand that spectrum a bit more. A few regular blues, different peak violets and such. Try and match what the high end manufactures have for colors like radion and maxspect. You will notice they have more colors than you are using. Even reefbreeders use quite a few colors.

    Radion:
    • Cool White: 8 Cree XP-G2 (40W)
    • Deep Blue: 8 Osram Oslon Square (40W )
    • Blue: 8 Cree XP-E (24W)
    Green: 4 Cree XP-E (14W)
    Hyper Red: 4 Osram Oslon SSL (12W)
    Yellow: 2 Osram Oslon SSL (6W)
    Indigo: 4 SemiLEDs (10W)
    UV: 4 SemiLEDs (10W)

    Razor:


    Cool White 8000K

    Royal Blue 450-465nm

    Warm White 3000K

    Blue 465-485nm

    Royal Blue 450-465nm

    Epileds Dual-Core Super Actinic 410-420nm
     
  11. Pickupman66

    Pickupman66 Tassled File Fish

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    Meh... IDK about spectrum expansion, but I do agree with the addition of the warmer whites. I simply love what mine did on my custom unit. I also noticed you are not fuly powering them either. I would raise them to 90% over the next week. run them to their full potential for a bit and see where that gets you. There is also an adjustment period for the corals on them.

    I took a very hodge podge of i dont know whats and did good things with them. had tremendous growth until the tank crashed due to other influences. anyone who says you cant grow sps under LED is uninformed IMPO.

    September 2013
    [​IMG]
    September 2012
    [​IMG]

    September 2013
    [​IMG]
    September 2012
    [​IMG]

    Mind you I discovered Flat worms just after the September 2012 photos.
     
  12. Rapid LED

    Rapid LED 3reef Sponsor

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    Sorry to hear that, what size tank is this over and how high off the water are the lights? Just want to make sure you're getting the proper amount of light to the corals and we can make some possible suggestions from there.