sps freaks

heres some pics
the Ca reactor has 3/8
the CaHO2 reactor has the 1/4
and when i get bored the output will be 3/8 also
input has to stay 1/4 due to the aatoc

 

otty:

went back through the thread and i never answered your question

the tank im planning is a flat back hex:

72" in the back, 48" in the front, 36" deep, 24" high, with 24" sides, for a 12" deep at a 45 degree angle on the front side

main tank:
255 gallons total
400 lbs L/R
255 lbs L/S

lights in hood on a sideways rail slide for easy bulb replacement:
5-400 w mh, 10-65 w pc, total 2650 w, 10.4 w/gal

all external pumps:
closed loop input from under the plenum with outputs in the main tank (2250 gph )
closed loop input from behind the rock for the chiller with the outputs to the main tank (1200 gph )
main pump from sump, output under the rock from the bottom of the tank ( 1590 gph )

all input from behind rock output to main tank:
#1 closed loop pump ( 2250 gph )
#2 closed loop pump (2250 gph )
#3 closed loop pump (2250 gph )

3 external overflows to maximize space ( cut into glass with box on the outside )
total flow around 46 times an hour inside the main tank

50 gallon refugium:
input from main tank gravity output to sump
25 lbs L/R
50 lbs L/S
2-175 w mh, 2-65 w pc

wet/dry sump with skimmer, reactors, dosers and aatoc and 30 lbs L/R with bio balls

 

Tell you one thing that would go good in that tank is a Ocean Motion valve, maybe the 4 or 8 way. I really like the caotic movement I get in the water with mine. I run it with a 5,800 gph HammerHead like Jason does. It's nice to see the corals move back and forth instead of just getting blasted from one direction.
Sounds like you are doing your homework and are one your way to a real nice tank. One thing I will give you warning on that I seem to have overlooked a little with mine is you need to make sure you have adequate ventalation in the summer as well as the winter. I run a ventless fireplace in the house in the winter and the extra CO2 is playing with the tank. Always something!
I did get a Dolphin Air pump with 4 stones and extra line to the skimmer bringing in outside air to the sump. Hope it helps because Mommy wants the fireplace back on and I have turned it off until I get the tank balanced out.

 

What most refer to as a ca. reactor is really more of a carbonate reactor. And there is not much more then a Nickels worth of difference between any one of them . Some are a bit more efficient but thats about it.. Now that being said the K2R is top of the list for inefficiency from all I ever ran.. Gave them away went back to simple old Knoop one of the best I ever found . Also The type of Media and size grade used plays a huge role .. But after reading this seems like a lot of tail chasing going on with trying to obtain a perfect level. of Dkh and Cal , I know I chased mine for yrs when I first started to mess with these things

But for what its worth it is not possible to change the calcium level without the alkalinity being affected also in a predicted and definite manner . You bump up the gas hoping to raise the effluent's Ca level you also raise the alk level.. Sometimes it just better to slow the effulient then to jack up the CO'2 and lower the internal P.H .. I have several formulas I use to check my daily uptake of the Carbonates and Ca by the systems demands.. If interested and I can dig them up I'll post them. But you will never achieve perfect stability with a ca /carbonate reactors use.. Close is good and slow changes are a must..

As for lime water use I always allow mine to settle for a few hrs after stirring .. Lessens the spiking of the Carbonates a little more.. It requires nothing on my part timers do the work.. But with my reactors all the make up water has to pass directly over and through my lime mix. The stirring just keeps it from caking in the bottom.. And if any gets into the tanks water the haze will fade in a little while..

 

otty:

the air induction/exhaust system is a part that i left out. outgoing air from the tank will be vented into the houses duct work. which does two things, heats the house in the winter, and cools in the summer. the incoming air to the tank will be from the outside of the house with a temp sensor to heat the duct work in the winter and cool in the summer. the incoming air will go into the hood assembly and branch off to be used in the sump also. i already have the blower and 6" duct work for this

the sump will also have a seperate tank within itself for the Ca reactor effluent with air introduced from the induction system raising the pH.

there will also be two other tanks set up for water changes. one empty all the time the other being used in the system. if and when a water change is needed just flip a valve and choose the other tank.

a drain system will be incorporated from the system into the house, im tired of carrying buckets, we arent getting any younger.

a house ro/di system will also be installed and a back up natural gas generator

 

hey, hop along, quit picking on my k2r, lol

as stated prior Ca reactors are actually dKH reactors. and they are easily tuned in. keep the effluent pH @ 6.7, the amount of flow depends on tanks dKH consumption rate. Ca and dKH will raise/drop together, the effluent is balanced. when adjusting the reactor only change either the CO2 bubble rate or the effluent flow rate, never both at the same time.

and a balanced system is possible

 

Thanks all. I think I'll put my Kalk stirrer back online tonight.

J

 

jason word of warning with CaHO2, dont use it to adjust your tanks pH

 

I know you can't get around much right now but if you can find these formulas I would be greatly appricated.

 

Jason in a system like yours especially I'd never ever entertain the notion of removing a Kalk Reactor. I know with the load we have I still dosed Ca like crazy and Now I find out last week My CO'2 is empty LOL So all we have working now is the lime water.. And I think I'm about of of the lime also LOL when it rains as they say . And I can't get to the basement at all..