SPS and PC's

No need to get upset...I was just making a comment. I will not debate the relevance of wpg with you because I see you are set in your ways, but just take one thing into thought, a 250W DE puts out approximately the same PAR that a 400W does (sometimes more with proper reflector), so again wpg is something of the past.

I will give you that depth is a major concern but I am also sure that you realize that piece of glass (or whatever you used to seal the tank) is only lowering the amount of light entering the tank.

-Mac

 

ther's a good reason......im a "LFS idot".....

Ne ways im not getting anyfurther into that one.
Just take this into thought....The par on pc's......Im not comparing bulb types Im using reg old pc's. IM TALKIN BOUT PC's.....i realize the differeces in bulb types and the amount of radiation they put off that can be used. I use HQI's for the reasons you just mentioned.....some people dont think before they speak. I dont know the Par of the bulbs in my 26 watt fixture... do you? There is nothing between the bulb and the water. All my connections are siliconed and water tight (by ME)....there are no points where creep could short my lights, im fairly sure i could submerge my hood and not short it though i have to ut some silicone and reglue to change bulbs. No abberation of light via any splash gaurd. PAR of my PC in realavance to what? Another PC, a MH, a HPS? What are comparing the par to to find a constant so you can judge the par? Par is only applicable to bulbs where it differs greatly in type so you can judge it and use the greater...ie a MH HQI VS. a high pressure sodium......im talking about a PC, is there a PC with a substantially greater par that comes in 13 watts..? I have no clue do you? No, so i judge by Watts/gallon, ballast type, distance to source, abberation, CT, ect.... If i knew my par i would state info based on it, i dont. If you can give me the par of my 2 13 watt bulbs, one 10,000 K one actinic then i will thank you for your help. I realize your statement and it's validity, but is application is skewed to me as I dont know the PAR of my PC. You dont either, PAR is not givin by the manufacture and i am not one with math......do you know how many "usefull" photons hit my polylps per second? I dont know how much of the radiation from my PC is usable for my critters. So your right i could be giving them 100 watts a gallon and not achieve the effect desired if they dont utilize the photons the bulb puts off. But i dont know the amount of usable radiation my bulb puts off.....thus i must use other methods to judge and determinge what is necesarry. in this case i've decided to try a bright PC in close proximity to the critters. "Everything is relavant".....somethings more than others.

 

Conversation over.

Back to your orignal question, yes it can be done but I do not suggest any acros, just montiporas.

-Mac

 

No conversation is not over, this thread is open.

Edited to protect board surfers. Craig Manoukian

 

I am sorry I got you so upset.  Please accept my appology.  I truley did not mean to affend you.  
-Mac

 

Don't worry Sea.  MacnReef is real good at stirring up fecal matter in just about any thread.  I won't deny there might be some truth in the advice, but it's the lies, and personal unproven theories that Mac attempts to bash into everybody's brains that sets people off.  


<COMMENTS LIKE THIS DON'T BELONG ON THIS BOARD.>  
<PLEASE DON'T POST IN A THREAD IF YOU DON'T HAVE ANYTHING TO ADD TO THE THREAD SUBJECT>
<editted by: Gresham>

 

I really do not understand the hostility in this thread. Debate is a very healthy part of any forum. But if we can not talk to each other without slinging negative comments the threads will be closed and we can all just post about IDs of Aptasia. Or better yet everyone involved will be band from 3Reef.
We do not want to do this.

Please debate the facts and listen to what everyone has to say. This is not about dictating your Views on everyone. State opinions and offer help.
This could be a very informative thread without all the crap.
You have been warned, Chill.

Jason

 

Most corals that are grown for reforestation of coral reef by the noaa are done so with vho/pc type lighting, for growth they will work on most sps except for the very light demanding types. When doing this you should conpensate with a little more nutrients in the water, to balance out the lack of photo that will be happening. Again this is for growth, as per colors I dought you will be able to sustain any with the exception of some moniti's and simular


Mike

 

Hi Mike!

The lack of color would be due then, to lack of intesity?

Thanks!

Sea,

Have you considered retrofitting HQI's> just curious!

 

Hiya bridlady
Corals have colors from pigments with in thier tissue. Zoox also has some of the same pigments and it uses them to gather light. The two dominate pigments in zoox are yellow and green, thus the brown color of zoox and thus the color of some corals. This happens two way, fertilizing (to many nutrients in the tank) and not enough light so more zoox to do the job.
The other colors (the ones we like) are seperate pigments in the corals tissue. Each pigment is different and has different requiements and likes. Some like certain color and flourese the same color back so take in one color and emit a completely different color. In this group the intencity is not all that required (just turn on only actinics and watch them glow) the very striking colored pigments are used as uv A and B blockers and absorbers and re-emitors. They usually perfer more intence light and small amount of uv.

In a pc or vho type light the light being emitted is sent through the whole bulb, that and the gas inside the bulb tends to milk on the surface so they really lack the punch to go very deep. Not like a point source light such as MH.

Mike