Should I remove live sand bed?

Okay, I'm off to the LFS where I purchase my water. I'm bringing a sample of my tank water, their fresh top-off RO and a bit of their salted water change RO.

I'll have them check for Phosphates, Nitrites, Nitrates, Alkalinity, Calcium, PH and Carbonate Hardness.

I'll post the results later on tonight.

 

Good and alkalinity is carbonate hardness both are one in the same I just find the DKH test are easier and more accurate.. I like simple the old KISS method live with me

 

Tangster - I'm back from LFS. Here we go:
Tank Water:
Phosphate: .5 - 1 (barely)
Nitrites: 0
Nitrates: 0 (Guy told me this was strange ~ maybe I have great husbandry?)
Alkalinity: didn't test
Calcium: Didn't test (Ran out of test kit >:|)
PH: 8.0-8.1
Amonia: Near 0

Fresh top-off RO water:
Phosphate: .2
He said all else is neutral because it's FRESH RO

Salted RO used for water changes:
Phosphate: .2
PH: 8.1
for some reason he felt it necessary to NOT test the others

What he suggested:
Add KENT Kalkwasser into my top-off RO water, only 2 tea spoons of Kalkwasser per gallon on RO water and add to sump SLOWLY a few times a week. Only about a pint on Kalkwasser top-off water at each time. So I'll probably top with Kalk RO on Mondays and Thursdays and fresh RO whenever else topping off is needed.

I hope this made sense. Any thoughts?

 

Well, my initial thoughts are to test the r.o. water yourself if he can't/won't test them for you. Just because the water is fresh doesn't mean that the store's r.o./d.i. membranes don't need to be changed. If that was the case, then the phosphate reading from the fresh r.o. water would be "0". Also, if we don't know the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels of ALL of your water sources (fresh and salt), or the calcium and alk levels in ALL of your salt water sources, including the water in your tank, we can't determine whether or not that's what is causing your algae problems. I don't suppose that your lfs person tested the fresh r.o. water with a tds meter? No test kit will test this for you, you need to test with a meter.

As for kalkwasser, unless you have a heavy coral load or are having significant problems with your ph, there's no reason to add it.

So, all that being said, I'm afraid that your lfs wasn't much help to you in determining what your algae problem stems from. If you do plan on staying in this hobby, you will absolutely need your own test kits so it might be time to order some up.

Either way, you need to get that phosphate number down. I understand that you're already running a phosphate sponge?

 

The P0'4 is way to high in the new fresh make up water it should be none at all. And as for alkalinity you really need to get that under control. PH means nothing really to many variables with temperature and time of day sample was taken beside the Alk. Controls the ph and if that level is at the proper levels then the PH has to be correct. Ca. also needs to be always monitored and kept in the proper range along with the Alk..

Phosphates above 0.05 is bad

Alk keeps PH up and PH lock and bind up phosphates at a Ph of 8 the Phosphates will go back into solution where as at a PH of 8.8 its locked and as long as the PH is above a constant 8.4 its very slow to get back into solution. Thats all the Kalk will do for you But with no huge demand of corals then you can control the alk with a good buffering agent Like Kents reef buffer plus .

So the bottom line is you have way to high of Phosphate {PO'4} level the Alk is probably to low and with the make up water you are being supplied then when you change water you are just adding more of what you don't want.. What Phosphate remover do you use ?

Also as mentioned also its time to get you a PO'4 and a Alk or DKH kit and a Ca test kit. no need to test PH. if you keep the alk at 3.5 to 5.00 if you use a DKH kit then 10 to 12 then the PH will be fine and the Ca at 400 to 450 Nitrates is also good to do but not a have to have now.

The Ca should be at 400 minimum this also helps ward off algae problems.

 

Tangster/Amcarrig
Wow! Slightly overwhelmed here. Okay, let's see. Yes, I'm using a phosphate sponge, Kend brand, in a nylog bag in the third stage of my Tide Pool. Water trickles over it right before hitting the huge bio-wheel and falling into the sump.

Since the PH in my tank is between 8.0-8.1, that's good, right? I thought too high of PH is bad. I wonder why the LFS guy felt it necessary to not test Alkalinity and Carbonate Hardness in any of the water samples?

What exactly is a TDS meter? Is it only for fresh RO, or can it be used for salted RO too? Are they expensive? What test kits should I purchase?

What adds ALK to the water? Is it an additive or does it come from some where else?

And what about my tank Nitrates being at 0? Is that strange?

 

OK where to start???
PH really means less then jack nothing people make to big a deal of that its just a slight indicator of the waters ability to buffer acids with its carbonates. To settle a tanks heart burn so to speak LOL Tumms for the tank if you will. and PH will tell you that the Carbonates are getting low or becoming depleted is a better term PH at say 4:00 am will be far more lower then say PH at 5:00 Pm in the afternoon or even a hr or so after lights have been on.
The available Carbonates dictate the PH not the other way around. As for High PH ? I have had them hit 8.6 8.7 8.9 even 9.+ with no real problems But it can cause the calcium to precipitate from solution and look like a snow storm in the tank. Thats bad.

So lets not worry bout PH just when you move it just don't move it to suddenly or to large in increments at once thats the key and on average I keep mine at 8.2 to 8.4 but 8.7 even with not problems . The Carbonates and Calcium interact with each other in a certain way and if one is to high then the other will be suppressed to a lower level. Again another article for another day LOL

But for your task and problem at hand let just stay on that.


If the LFS person felt it was unimportant to test the parameters of Total Alkalinity and Calcium I'd find another shop myself especially if they knew you where having algae problems.. All I can say is they really have not a clue of what they are doing. Must have wanted to sell you a Bottle of Kalkwaser and a drip device or even a reactor maybe ? Oh Kalkwasser is just a German word for Lime water LOL I have always used cheap Pickling lime myself. Way before Kalkwasser was ever marketed.. But again another story LOL

But the reason we have salt-marshes full of slime algaes and higher forms of algae and plants, mangroves included, is that it is an area where the PH is lowest, where the lowest amounts of carbonates are found, and where the higher levels of Nitrates are found; a refugium if you will. Old mother nature had it all figured out

TDS meter's are to just test the make up water from a filtration system to check for the amount of Total Dissolved Solids TDS.
As for Kit's just get you a DKH Calcium and Calcium. I have used them all and I like the old Red Sea Reef test kits has about all you need in it except the DKH I like the simple Tropic Marian GK kits for that.. and a Marine PH test kit is worthless

And as for what adds Alk any complete Buffer SeaChem reef complete or Kent's Reef buffer

And also these companies both make a good calcium additive I like the Kent's Turbo for beginners no money wasted on water either and simple to use.Just read the labels on all additives until you learn to work with them.

As for NO3's at Zero ? No thats really good just means the wet dry is not a nitrate factory LOL and you are not feeding the tank to death with frozen meats and waste . I run a de-nitrate coil myself so I don't worry about that myself But thats really good Keep it up with regular monthly or bi monthly testing.

But at then end of the day you can never assume any levels in any marine or for that matter freshwater tank even are ever good or at proper amounts and levels , in a living closed bio physical/chemicial environment nothing is ever static its always changing and to try and run a tank with out testing with proper kits is to me like driving a car with no properly working fuel gage you know there is some fiel in there , the truck started But how long will it last and how far can you go ??? Y'all will have to forgive me now for taking so long to try and explain this stuff I'm just a simple old country boy hobbyist.

 

To add to Tangster's post, if your tank water is testing "0" nitrates, it could be that the algae in your tank is sucking the nitrates out of the water resulting in a possible "false" zero. Test the water going into your tank (both fresh and salt) for nitrates to determine if you're adding any to the system.

 

LOL! How do I leave karma - Tangster's post was AWESOME!

Let me take some time to digest all this. I'll get back to you guys shortly...

 

There are several icons underneath everybody's avatar. If you hold your mouse over all of the icons their purpose will pop up. Just find the one that says "Add to Tangster's Karma" and click it