RO/DI Unit making less water than expected?

Discussion in 'Filters, Pumps, etc..' started by Magnus, May 3, 2010.

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Is the Vertex Puratek 100 GPD RO/DI unit.....

Poll closed May 17, 2010.
  1. Not worth the money and not enough filtration.

    1 vote(s)
    12.5%
  2. Definitely sufficient filtration for a Reef Tank.

    1 vote(s)
    12.5%
  3. An excellent, dependable RO/DI unit for the money!

    0 vote(s)
    0.0%
  4. Sorry dude! I don't have experience with this unit/brand.

    6 vote(s)
    75.0%
  1. Magnus

    Magnus Sharknado

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    Thanks for your reply AZDesertRat! I have one more for you :)

    Should the waste water valve be open all the way at all times or do you close that a little bit? I don't understand the purpose of this valve. If I Close it all the way, water still comes out from it. In smaller volume, but still does.
     
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  3. AZDesertRat

    AZDesertRat Giant Squid

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    I assume your unit has a flush valve? Personally I feel they are a waste of money but regardless, the valve should be left in the closed position when treating water. This forces water through the flow restrictor at the 4:1 ratio. When you are done making water and ready to shut the unit off, open the bypass or flush valve for a couple minutes to supposedly flush the membrane before shutting the unit off. The intent is to carry solids away from the membrane so they do not have a chance to collect and solidify on its surface. It sounds good but is really a "warm fuzzy" or "feel good" gesture with no documented proven value. Keeping the waste ratio at 4:1 continously flushes the membrane while it is making water and is the best proven method of flushing a membrane in a normal system. The flush valve can't hurt but no one has convinced me they do anything other than lighten your wallet.
     
  4. Magnus

    Magnus Sharknado

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    Yes, you're right. They described it as a "flush valve" and they recommend keeping it open for 15 minutes after making water. I thought I was supposed to tap that into my sink's drain... since even when the flush valve is closed, unless I close the "pure water output" is also closed water will keep oozing out of it. I'm not sure what a flow restrictor works. I can guess what it does because of the name, and I looked it up online.. it just looks like a piece of wire.

    I think I'll tap this flush valve into the drain with the clamps they included. These clamps seem to go around a 1" drain and on one side there's a quick connect. It came also with a black foam pad, which I assume goes around the 1/4" hole you need to drill on your drain and that you align with the quick release valve that the flush hose goes into?

    I'm sorry for so many questions. I feel I should find documentation on how do RO systems work and stop annoying you ;)

    Thanks again!

    - Mag.
     
  5. AZDesertRat

    AZDesertRat Giant Squid

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    Yes, you can plumb it into your sink drain with the drain saddle. Make sure you install it on the sink side of the P trap and not the sewer side of the P trap which could potentially lead to cross connection problems.
    If your unit does not have an autoshutoff valve you will need to shut the water supply off after making water or it will continue to run out of both the treated and waste lines. An autoshutoff valve is a $10-$15 item that shuts both the treated and waste flows off when it senses backpressure on the treated line such as a closed ball or solenoid valve, raised float valve or full pressure tank in the case of a drinking water system. If you plan on adding a float valve and Brute trashcan or similar you wil need the autoshutoff valve to gao along with the float valve, many places sell it as a kit with both included.