RO/DI question

ok hooked up the float part as the other part is already on the ro/di here's some pics...is the part for the ro/di hooked up right? it shuts off the water to the sump but the waste just keeps running down the drain.

OK the orange is the waste, the red is the supply to the ro/di and the white in front running right to left in front of the unit is the supply to the sump


here is the right side of it and the top one goes to the sump


left side of it


front of it close up



does it look right to you guys? maybe I have it set up wrong and that's why my water never tests 0 out of it?

 

my bad, i had you confused with someone else. it helps to pay attention to the little numbers on the left that show the age.

 

First off, the horizontal DI units aren't as efficient as vertically mounted...
What is in the bottom 3 filter canisters and what's over the horizontal DI chamber?
Should be plumbed: supply water in > sediment filter(s) > charcoal filter > top of asov > cap end of RO membrane canister , then split >>. One outlet (more kind of on the side than the middle) from RO goes to waste water (your's looks right). The other outlet on the RO canister should be the water that has passed through the RO membrane, from there > check valve > bottom of asov > DI canister > float valve in the sump.

I tested mine again, and my waste water doesn't shut off either when the DI outlet is closed off.

 

Maybe Obama's confusion has spread and affected some of the Illinois population already.

Linda, Looks like you should have an in-line (one-way) check valve between the RO water outlet and the asov.
What's in the horizontal canister over the horizontal DI?

 

this is where I bought it and what kind of filters it has on it without the tank. Check valve to clean out the resin one correct? I'll look at your replies when I wake up I gotta go to bed. 6am comes awfully early!
http://cgi.ebay.com/6st-100GPD-Reve...ryZ20684QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

 

So if I'm reading the link right, that's a second carbon filter. Did you flush the carbon filters, sediment filters, ro membrane, and di resin before plumbing them all up together?
That's an important step there, came with the filter installation instructions from www.buckeyefieldsupply.com. If not, it may be the reason you're not reading 0 tds, or maybe just cheaper quality membrane and filters possibly?
Since you're not using it for drinking water, I'd chuck both the granulated carbon filters, keep the sediment filter, carbon block filter, and make the vertical (old granulated carbon filter canister) canister into your vertical DI chamber. I'd also rather use the 1 micron filter rather than the 5 micron sediment filter, and a 2 micron nominal carbon block rather than the 5 micron carbon block that came with that unit. Yours got bigger holes in 'em. ;D

 

the instructions that came with mine were minimal at best, they might as well have been written in chinese......I got mine from P U R E W A T E R C L U B on ebay....there were no instructions on rinsing filter. I don't have two outputs, a tank or a drinking spout thing. I got the ro/di and that's it. I've already replaced the filters once and this is what is currently in it, telling me how crappy or good this system might be, still doesn't answer my original question. And since I've hooked it up, and the waste water keeps running, that tells me either I've hooked up up wrong(as per their instructions) or the auto shut of valve thing doesn't work. Hmmmm..... I'm back to the beginning......

I'll be back later tonight...got a job in atl. and I gotta run! Thanks y'all!

Stage Picture Filter Functions Replacement 1 5 micron PP
sediment filter to remove dirt, sediment, rust and sand particles 12 months 2 granular activated
carbon filter to remove chlorine, chloramine, odor and chemicals 12 months 3 5 micron coconut
carbon block filter to remove remaining chemicals, pesticides and protect your membrane 12 months 4 USA Purolite color changing
DI (De-Ionized) filter to remove hard water minerals 12 months 5 in-line granular activated
carbon filter to pure tasting water 12 months 6 TFC (made in USA)
100 GPD RO Membrane to removes 98% to 99.99% of all chemical and harmful dissolved elements and 99% of all bacteria 2 ~ 3 years

 

A auto cut off has to have positive pressure on the down stream port to push the diaphragm up on the seat to shut the valve off Unless the feed line to sump or bucket has a valve or solenoid to shut the water off at the sump outlet to create the needed 30% back pressure then the waste will still run. No matter what you try . These work on the exact same principle as a Sloan Valve on a toilet in a public rest room you know the big Chrome valve that connected to the toilet bowl and not a flush tank.. The handle breaks the vacuum and allows the flush to happen then on the refill the pressure above the diaphragm reaches 30% or more on top the rubber diaphragm it starts to close down .. But I'm also sure many have heard them hissing and leaking .. And if a 400.00 Sloan can leak so will a 7.00 auto cut off

I myself would just get a Kold sterile filter and get 5 GPM and zero waste water and better then r/o d.i I myself have a electric float and a Mechanical float set to open up when the water level ever falls 1/2 inch below the set point of the float switch that opens the make up water solenoid . Gives me peace of mine know how these electric controls can and do fail.

Oh Linda when that D.I resign is exhausted if interested ? I can tell you a way to make 2 small changes to that unit to allow you to toss all the crap on top away except for the R/O and get a better unit with a vertical D.I housing.

 

Tru Dat! :-/

 

Good morning everyone !!

After all this thread...very informative I might add, I am cool. Gonna keep it simple.
ASOV at the sump... The end. (literally) ; )

Now I'm off to get the yellow tailed damsel.
Cycle. Cycle. Cycle.
LG