ro/di filter replacement

Thanks,
I have a 1 micron prefilter on it now on your advise earlier. I didn't know it but I had a 5 micron in it for about a month. I will not just purchase a filter kit any longer.
How would I convert the second housing into a DI?
Thanks in advance...

 

To convert the second carbon canister to a DI you need to unscrew the canister tops from the top bracket, unscrew the nipple and tubing fittingss out of the canister to be replumbed then replumb so the water now travels from the remaining carbon canister up to the RO membrane housing using the parts removed from the downstream side of the one you removed, using some teflon tape on the threads. Take the canister you removed and turn it 90 degrees then screw it back to the top bracket(the holes should all be there to do this) so the inlet and outlet are now facing front to back rather than side to side like before. Install a couple of 1/4" john guest speed fittings or compression fittings and run the treated water from the RO membrane back down to the newly plumbed canister then out to your storage container and you are in business. Sounds complicated but it really isn't and might cost you $10 for a couple fittings. You can then supply your own empty refillable 20 oz cartridge to put the resin in or buy a prefilled one like the SilicaBuster found in the Spectrapure sales flyer for $18.

 

Thanks for the great description of the process.

 

The ro/di came with inline restrictor is that good enough?

 

When I test for tds where and what water should I test other then the final product water

 

Many inline flow restrictors are not sized correctly, this is why you need to check your waste ratio yourself under your unique conditions. Not everyone has the same water temperature and water pressure nor are they all plumbed the same way and the length of the waste line an restrictions can change the waste flow. I never use a fixed flow restrictor since I have never found one to be exactly right. Its cheap, easy and painless to trim a capillary tube restrictor for an exact 4:1.

You need to test the TDS from three places with an RO/DI unit. Tap water TDS, RO only TDS before the DI and final RO/DI TDS. The tap water and RO only tell you how your RO membrane is performing. since it is the workhorse and does 90-98% of the work you really need to know its removal efficiency or rejection rate, you could be throwing DI resin at a bad membrane like a crutch and wasting money. Any RO/DI should produce a final TDS or 0 but better units cost less to do so since they are more efficient.

 

I changed all the filters the ro/di final product water tds 0. I have a leak problem on the carbon block (2nd canister) I keep tighten it and it still leak. Should I just unscrew it and try to see what's the problem?

I should get the tds for the water that before itgoes in the system? What would this tell me?

What should I look for when I test the water that is before the DI

 

Unscrew the leaking canister and apply a little food grade silicone grease to the O ring.(HD or Lowes has it)
You need to know yor tap water TDS and RO only TDS so you know how well the RO membrane is performing, it does 90 to 98% of the treatment so must be in goo operating condition. Any RO/DI should get you 0 TDS, at least for a little while, its the good ones that get 0 TDS for a long time on a single DI cartridge since the membrane is performing well.

 

I just took two cups waste line in one cup and final product in the other.

when waste water cup filled up the ro/di in the other cup is under half a cup would that consider 4:1 ratio

 

That would be about 2:1, not 4:1.