Reef Sparky's 18" x 18" x 18" Nano Build.

Some pics of the stand construction. This is the 3rd or so stand I've build using this simple design I found on the internet a few years ago. It's based on the premise that no screws bear weight, only wood. In fact, the top "box" or frame, doesn't even get screwed in place. When the tank is removed, the top platform can be lifted away, as seen in the pics.

 

Yeah, reflections are funny. It's the angle.

The holes are the drilled holes in the tank, which is sitting on it's back in that particular photo to allow the overflow pane to sit vertically while the silicone dries.

 

Nice design on the stand should be quite sturdy. I like the idea of no stress on the screws.

 

nice tank sparky i cant wait to see this one put together!

 

For those interested. Here's the pic upon which the stand is based. I found it years ago, and all my DIY stands have been from this concept. It's brilliant in its simplicity.



One component worthy of mention is the lime green vertical pieces (4 each). They're called screw strips, and the vertical purple/blue uprights which distribute the load are screwed into them. In this way, no single screw bears any weight. If you study the pic, you'll see there are two "boxes" or frames. The bottom one sits on the floor, and the top frame supports the tank. The only difference in the stand for this project, is that the frame doesn't support the rim of the tank as it usually does. That's where the 8 horizontal 2x4's come in. They're resting on the top frame, and distribute the weight of the tank down the uprights to the lower frame.

In my build, the screw strips are 2x2's, and the screws are coming out of the screw strips into the exterior uprights, so there are no screws visible from the outside of the stand (other than the frame screws, which are recessed, and will be filled with wood putty to hide them.)

 

Looks like a GARF stand I think. Simplicity is the best when it comes to important items.

 

It looks great so far. I have a question about the stand though. In the last picture, see the green boards...why don't they go to the top of the other broads? Why are they cut short? Wouldn't that make for extra cuts? If anything, I would think you would want to have them be the same height, as to maybe have some extra strength. Please explain...

 

So here are shots of the plumbing coming along. The bean overflow utilizes 3 drains. The main, the open channel, and the emergency. Basically, the main creates a siphon, drawing no air, and more water than a durso or standpipe b/c it doesn't have a vent. It's a true siphon, and as such carries a lot more water than its vented counterparts. The second is called the open channel. This is the airline-equipped drain. It carries any incidental water that might ebb beyond the main siphon. If all is well, this pipe will rarely see water. When it does (and the water level is below the airline tubing) it acts similarly to a durso in that it's vented and will allow air into the drain; however since the flow is almost negligible, no actual bubbles should make their way down into the sump. Think of it as a very big pipe handling just a little water. Air is permitted, but none is mixed into the water. If the water level should go higher than the airline tubing, then the open channel becomes a siphon, and will handle the same load as the main siphon does/did. The last pipe is the upturned emergency drain. If the level in the overflow rises high enough, it carries the load. In a perfect scenario, it never sees water. But in the event the other two pipes can't carry their load, the emergency will. It's complete overkill, but will cause one to sleep very well at night.

Once it's wet, I'll post a lot more pics--I know how you vultures are.

 

Those are the screw stirips. See post 15.

 

Yeah I understand that. But what's the purpose of them being cut short, at top & at bottom?