Purchased overflow, which return pump?

Discussion in 'Filters, Pumps, etc..' started by Anthos312, Apr 25, 2012.

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  1. wallstdrifter

    wallstdrifter Flamingo Tongue

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    My opinion-

    All I can say is to try to set up on a cement floor next to a floor drain. If it were me I would close off both holes with screw capped bulkheads, drain the first reservoir to the height required by the skimmer (mod required) and drop an in-tank sump return pump in the second reservoir. That's my take. I don't worry about refugium because I have lots of critters living in my large shell Florida crushed coral plenum bed and live rock.

    Don't forget to size the skimmer first. Bigger is not better. Following spec is best. Try to keep the skimmer and return wet unless you are on cement next to a working floor drain.
     
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  3. AZDesertRat

    AZDesertRat Giant Squid

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    I would also use a threaded bulkhead.
    If you do a quick search you will find a sticky thread I authored titled "Bulkhead Installation Tips". In that thread I address ways to deal with imperfect holes.

    See, I have been doing the aquarium hobby for decades and the advice I offer is based on those years of experience. I can tell you from experience, Mag pumps have not improved over rhe decades and they stil run hotter than heck. I keep a Mag 5 and 7 around just for mixing new saltwater in the winter months, that way I don't have to add a heater. You seem to have your mind made up though so screw experience and the advice of many who have much more than the rest of us.
     
  4. AZDesertRat

    AZDesertRat Giant Squid

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    Danner Mag Repair

    Just an example of the hundreds of threads out there when you research.
     
  5. Anthos312

    Anthos312 Millepora

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    Dude. Chill...

    I am listening to everyones advice and I will make an informed decision on my own. Thanks.

    Gotta understand not everyone will agree with others opinions, I appreciate the advice and information. That was the point of this thread. I will checkout your bulkhead installation tips, I am really curious as to how this will turn out. Its kind of a weird sump so I might customize it up a bit.
     
  6. wallstdrifter

    wallstdrifter Flamingo Tongue

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    Looks to me like the skimmer mfg, in a round about way, calls for a max return pump rate at outlet (flow in sump) of about 350 gal/hr. They don't give a minimum.
     
  7. Anthos312

    Anthos312 Millepora

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    So what would i use? A regular threaded bulkhead with a nut and then run a small piece of PVC and glue a cap on the end?
     
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  9. wallstdrifter

    wallstdrifter Flamingo Tongue

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    Put the capped nipple inside the sump if you can. Tighten the bulkhead with a bulkhead wrench. They will pop off the nut before your can over tighten.
    Apply silicon lube to the gasket. Don't use silicon glue. Buy the best bulkhead you can afford (Bulk Reef Supply has good ones.) You have the option the use a schedule 80 ball valve as an out drain (not useful usually.)
     
  10. AZDesertRat

    AZDesertRat Giant Squid

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    No silicone or lube on the gasket per my Bulkhead Tips sticky posts.
    Use a thread x thread bulkhead and a threaded PVC plug to lessen the fittings, potential for leaks and space required. For best results on the plug, follow my tips on cleaning up the threads with a jewelers file or Xacto knife then use LaCo PVC thread lubricant rather than teflon tape or paste.
     
  11. wallstdrifter

    wallstdrifter Flamingo Tongue

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    I like to coat my bulkhead gaskets with silicone to provide more medium for the seal and for longevity of the gasket material it's physical seal. If I tighten too much the gasket distorts and/or pops out from the bulkhead. I must tighten up to that point. I like this because it is a natural defense against over-tightening wihich I prefer not to do on glass and could possibly cause a failure creep on the bulkhead plastic.

    Please detail any problems with this. I will change my procedure as needed.

    Thanks in advance.
     
  12. AZDesertRat

    AZDesertRat Giant Squid

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    When you leave it dry as intended, it actually vulcanizes or adheres to the surfaces and forms a bette rseal. Plus as you described, when you add silicone they tend to scoot out or distort which is not as common when dry.

    If you have ever torn an old system down you will find the gasket sticks to the glass like glue and must be scraped off with a knife or razor blade, it doesn't seal any better than that.