Discussion in 'I made this!' started by madlarkin, Jun 17, 2009.
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oops, I meant 1000w halides where I put only 100w LOL But you all knew better
The glass I know I can get away with 1/2" for the dimensions I am using, and the research on acrylic says the same thing. My big back and forth is going with 3/4" for the extra peace of mind. Its also trickier because every calculator I have seen so far is for an all glass/acrylic tank VS a plywood tank where you are supporting the glass along all 4 edges because it is simply acting as a window.
Either way the tank is getting a euro brace and possible cable bracing if needed to try and keep all deflection to a minimum. The concern I have now is less about thickness and more about the ability to safely mount the acrylic.
Remember that low iron (starphire) glass is not as strong as the regular stuff, so usually folks go with 1 size thicker if you are close to the max of that particular thickness of glass.
Started doodling out some designs for the stand/tank depending if it goes peninsula or flat against the wall. Time to put on your thinking caps though, folks. One of the houses we are looking at is leading the pack. It has a great location for the tank, the only downside is that getting space below in any type of basement setup would be tough. There is a room behind it that I could steal as a fishroom, so all is not lost. The problem I am encountering is the refugium and sump would obviously be very limited in height placement.
Anybody have any thoughts around this problem?
Did a little more playing around and came up with two overflow schemes I am content should provide enough drainage for a heavy flow-through. Which design will be pretty much dependent on final location(if I do wind up able to use a basement space or get stuck with a fish room, if there is enough room to do a peninsula style).
Anyways, the jury says 2 6"x6" island style overflows each with a pair of 2" drains. If that won't work with my vision, a 50"x18"tallx3" with 6 1.5" drains should be good for at least 4000gph through it and still leave enough room for the two closed loops.
Back to the drawing board on the closed loop. I overlooked a big one when planning it, and as my boss kindly pointed out "TWO pumps drawing 14.4 amps EACH running 24/7?? Are you F'n nuts?!?!"
Yeah, 2 pumps running at 14.4 amps all day would be $$.
As far as the sump room is concerned, I know of a few systems that are 200-1400g's that are all in the basement. That should not present you with any issues, jsut make the sump as low as possible to have gravity help out.
What I was figuring is the sump on the floor, seperate drain into the fuge. Over the fuge I want to build a shelf setup for the frag tanks, have T off the return pump water to the top frag tank before draining down to the lower ones and back to the sump.
I'm REALLY glad he caught the power issue...30 amps just on the circulation would have put a hurting on me.
Been talking it over with the boss and he is likewise excited about the project. I have already roped him into helping with the build(poor bastard).
Anybody have experience with TAP Plastics basic expoxy resin? I am thinking of going with 3-4 coats of that with a finish of 3-4 coats of TAP Super-Hard to buy myself a little more impact resistance. Probably don't need to go that thick, but overkill isn't a bad thing. Who knows, I may wind up going with less once lazy hits
Hmm, never saw the TAP stuff.
Got a link?
They do a pretty broad range of epoxy's. I have used the various marine grade epoxy mixes as well as the the super hard in some automotive applications. The general purpose isn't my favorite for laying up glass, but for the small amount going into the tank it will work perfectly. The super hard is excellent for minimal scratch/impact damage, hence why I am thinking of running it as the top coat.
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