Please Help - - - - I think Im losing my corals

Discussion in 'ASAP' started by Reef_Ninja, Jul 24, 2014.

to remove this notice and enjoy 3reef content with less ads. 3reef membership is free.

  1. Reef_Ninja

    Reef_Ninja Spaghetti Worm

    Joined:
    May 10, 2013
    Messages:
    182
    Location:
    Carson City, NV
    I cant really test for Mg right now, LFS is too far away and I only have today off...........

    So with Ca low like that, and Alk a little on the high side, you really think that would cause this?
     
  2. Click Here!

  3. Billme

    Billme Eyelash Blennie

    Joined:
    Sep 9, 2013
    Messages:
    1,287
    Location:
    Bakersfield, Ca
    I would think that too much light too fast would be more of a problem than too little light. I'd recommend limiting the changes you do. Water changes would probably be the most sure way of adjusting chemistry as well as reducing any unknown nutrients.
    I don't think that low mg would be a direct cause. It only plays a part in how the coral calcifies and grows. The bleaching is more of an acute problem. A any rate, water changes should bring it within the normal, if not ideal range.
     
    Mr. Bill likes this.
  4. Reef_Ninja

    Reef_Ninja Spaghetti Worm

    Joined:
    May 10, 2013
    Messages:
    182
    Location:
    Carson City, NV
    The lighting is really starting to aggravate the crap out of me. At the manufacturer's recommendation, I was only running this thing at 30% for the last three months. Seems like they recommended a fixture that is over kill for my tank. Or am I missing something here?

    Anyways, water chemistry is starting to make a little more sense. I mean, after three months I would have expected at least SOME corraline algae growth, but I haven't seen not one little piece. Even the coralline on the LR that I tried to seed the tank with hasn't really shown any signs of expanding.
     
  5. Reef_Ninja

    Reef_Ninja Spaghetti Worm

    Joined:
    May 10, 2013
    Messages:
    182
    Location:
    Carson City, NV
    Anyways, I probably should have done a WC first, but last night I dosed some Ca. Rechecked my labs again right now:

    Ca - 480 (surprised actually, I only used < half of what was recommended)
    Alk - 3.5 meq/L

    Still plan on doing a WC today.
     
  6. Billme

    Billme Eyelash Blennie

    Joined:
    Sep 9, 2013
    Messages:
    1,287
    Location:
    Bakersfield, Ca
    OK, so those two are within normal range. That's good. You can probable maintain the normal range with just water changes. Down the road you might want to get mg and phosphate test kits.
    As far as lighting, I've noticed that I've had worse luck with corals that came from florescent than from LED or mh lighting. Depending on your lighting they still may be suffering shock from the change. But that's just a guess.
     
  7. Reef_Ninja

    Reef_Ninja Spaghetti Worm

    Joined:
    May 10, 2013
    Messages:
    182
    Location:
    Carson City, NV
    Its just weird. The Acan colony, chalice, acro, and zoas all came from the same place maintained by LED lighting. Not sure what the fixture was, but the lights seemed pretty intense and were about the same height above the water as mine?
     
  8. Click Here!

  9. Reef_Ninja

    Reef_Ninja Spaghetti Worm

    Joined:
    May 10, 2013
    Messages:
    182
    Location:
    Carson City, NV
    Im going to run to Petco and pick up a phosphate kit. Im not sure how useful it will be..........my algae issues don't seem TOO bad right now (cyano is clearing up, hair algae is definitely WAY down from before, and I grow chaeto).
     
    Billme likes this.
  10. Mr. Bill

    Mr. Bill Native Floridian

    Joined:
    May 28, 2011
    Messages:
    4,874
    Location:
    USA
    Getting lots of great advice, here. :)

    Too little light doesn't bleach corals, only too much.

    Chemistry imbalance and/or nutrient issues can make corals more sensitive to intense lighting, so reducing it a bit more until you get everything else in order might not be a bad idea. Also, make sure you get a high-quality low level phosphate kit; you need the accuracy, here.

    If you have cyano, you have high phosphates. You may want to vacuum out all you can while removing water for a water change; cyano stores extra phosphate and releases it back into the water when it starts dying. Your chaeto is a definite plus, but it may take some time for everything to clear up.
     
    Billme likes this.
  11. Corailline

    Corailline Super Moderator

    Joined:
    Sep 8, 2010
    Messages:
    19,652
    Location:
    It is a dry heat, yeah right !
    It can take weeks to see improvement in coloration and coral health after you have decreased the intensity. If the manufacture told you 30% leave it at intensity and just be very patient. Your LPS look baked to me. The majority of LPS you do not want to start out at the top of the tank or rock work, keep them in the sand bed and in some cases in an area of less intensity if possible. I would also feeding those LPS.
     
    Mr. Bill and Billme like this.
  12. Reef_Ninja

    Reef_Ninja Spaghetti Worm

    Joined:
    May 10, 2013
    Messages:
    182
    Location:
    Carson City, NV
    Thanks, Im not going to mess with the lights, but it really confuses me. Most of me wants to leave it alone, but if everything looks baked, even at 30%, with everything but the acro at the bottom of the tank, Im not really sure what to think.

    So for now, Im doing a WC right now.

    Seems like the alk and Ca are balanced for now, so Im not messing with that.

    Just tested the Phosphate......Im a little on the color blind side (thanks Mom : ) ), but its definitely < .20.

    Its just hard for me to grasp the problem here. My alk and Ca couldn't have been out of range for more than 7 days............could that really cause this much damage?