Peroxide application video using the reefbowl

Discussion in 'Algae' started by brandon429, Mar 18, 2012.

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  1. Matt Rogers

    Matt Rogers Kingfish Staff Member

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    That certainly sounds promising Brandon. I'd be curious to read the history of peroxide in aquaculture if you have a link handy.
     
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  3. brandon429

    brandon429 Fire Worm

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    id have to dig around for that link but I think I got it by googling "potassium permanganate and hydrogen peroxide as sludge digestors in aquaculture"

    isn't it amazing there are no formal articles or case studies about it for reef tank use

    The whole point of all the before and after pics is to make a long term study via jpegs as best as possible

    We infer there is no harm to filter bacteria because ammonia is not detected in any of these tanks but more detail is needed to truly understand its effects.

    Formal studies on that matter would be great, we have seen no work on the matter regarding reef tank use

    it is utilizing the oxygen atom as a non residual, biocidal and shockingly specific tool for killing algae.
     
    Last edited: Mar 20, 2012
  4. malac0da13

    malac0da13 Torch Coral

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    I got a wicked outbreak of this brown macro algae. How does peroxide work with macros? Will it kill it or not do anything?
     
  5. brandon429

    brandon429 Fire Worm

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    it will kill 100% of it, it kills everything plant based/single celled its amazing

    help us collect some pics for 3reef~
    take before pics, then take out the target rocks and apply fresh 3% from a new bottle or one not more than a month old on the target. wait three mins, rinse off, put back take pics in two days

    if you cant remove the rock and must treat in tank, post us a full tank shot to see whats in there 98% of reefs are fine with an in tank treatment thats what my video is

    where some of the peroxide will contact the reef but we can tell what will happen by seeing the animals you are stocking
     
  6. brandon429

    brandon429 Fire Worm

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    if you want to see someone elses pics of macrokill with a full tank dosing, that reefcentral thead I linked on page two has a macro kill somewhere between page 8 and 12 i think it was
     
  7. malac0da13

    malac0da13 Torch Coral

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    It is pretty much on every rock and I have a nice bubble tip anemone so I would before to just try dosing the whole tank at first. What is the recommended dosing 10mil per gallon?
     
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  9. brandon429

    brandon429 Fire Worm

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    that bta is a known sensitive though, expect some shriveling and a week or two to rebound but we haven't lost one yet with the dosing. It just acts mad. it was 1ml per 10 gallons, reverse!
    dose it 3 or 4 times for a week do a nice water change end of week, repeat next week with 2 mils per 10 gallons but I think first round will get it.

    can you post a pic first

    also are you sure theres no way to drain your tank down really low and get to as much as you can up top? most tanks can handle this method and you can reuse the water you drained out although a water change is better.

    Everyone wants to start with full tank dosing because its the easiest but I recommend it last even though we have lots of people doing it. I only like these threads when the results are totally predictable and nobody loses anything like cleaner shrimp, xenias etc

    any part of your tank you can drain and spot treat is using less total peroxide input into the tank yet the organism gets 100x the dosage compared to a systemic run, you also get the fastest effect with this method compared to full tank dosing which is a prolonged contact of peroxide to nontargets, really it should be a last resort or at least a calculated risk based on the all the others feedback who did it in the thread.

    based on the pic though there is a large chance one week pass with a systemic dose will knock it out thats what the other guy did and his tank didn't have any known sensitives.

    both of the peroxide treated tanks that had hosting anems had the shriveling effect and both of them came back slowly. there have only been two or three though Ive seen out of all those tanks with anems...
     
  10. brandon429

    brandon429 Fire Worm

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    during the dosing, as soon as the ends or the parts of the macro start to fade white stop the dosing and hold off on the water change for a few days, thats the death point and it will set in without having to keep adding more and more peroxide. must use a new bottle or at least a bottle not more than a month old.
     
  11. Jake

    Jake Sea Dragon

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    Just to be clear, you are talking about hydrogen peroxide correct? There are other peroxides out there, like benzoyl peroxide.

    I have a rock in my tank that is covered with algae (I'm not sure of the species, it looks like pine needles though). I was thinking of removing the rock and dipping it in peroxide next week. I just need to figure out what chemical to buy and the exact procedure.
     
  12. brandon429

    brandon429 Fire Worm

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    yes thats the one, you are right that should be clarified. But rather than dipping, which brings the peroxide literally into the pores of the rock (which is also very thorough in ridding it but still pretty overdone) its a little better to just hold the rock over a towel or something and drip apply the peroxide to the target areas, let sit for two mins outside the tank (it won't bubble much, just look like clear water on your algae) then you rinse it off nicely with saltwater and place back in tank. regardless of what species the algae is (gha, bryopsis, dictyota, various macro algae, bubble algae etc) it will die in a couple days.

    You may need a follow up treatment to catch any regenerative tissues left in the rock surface. If the live rock isn't particularly dense with life and its just a few corals on it or some bare live rock dipping it in a solution of half 3% hydrogen peroxide, a new bottle from the pharmacy etc, and 50% clean saltwater set to a little higher S.G to make up for the peroxide dilution part, for a few mins and then taking out and rinsing will also work. whichever way is fine. Its a nice treatment because it rinses clean, isn't antibacterial in the doses we use (you will not re cycle even when adding it to a full tank) and its harmless to nontarget organisms you can and cant see on the rocks when applied in this emersed treatment I was describing. @takepics! thanks for contributing to the thread.
    B