Not Quite Sold on LED Lighting

Well, if you set aside the possibility of photoinhibiting your corals (or, opposite-- under-lighting them), then you really don't need to fret the long-term viability of LEDs for SPS. The main problem I've seen is folks using them too brightly--- while others say they've seen people not using enough (I have to admit I've very, very rarely seen folks underlight a tank with Cree/Rebel LEDs). That's an easy fix, just dim them down. If it's not bright enough, toss in a few more. (sorry but I can only really discuss the DIY aspect of it, I don't spend my cash on premanufactured arrays lol)


I think that really just leaves spectrum as the only real issue with LEDs, and the spectral analysis thread linked earlier in this forum shows that the right LEDs (of which there are many, many) are just as good as halides, when used in the common cool white or neutral white configurations------- except for the lack of spectral intensity at narrower wavelengths like 400-420nm (violet), which many halides do greatly.

 

I have the 48inch marineland reef l.e.d's.About a week after I mounted them my corals started to show effect..they weren't reaching upward the way they used to, rarely came out...and when they finally did they just weren't the vivid color they once were.About a week later I noticed my Sebae anemone turning white"started to bleach out".I did some reading and discovered that the l.e.d fixture is only 1watt per l.e.d light..I.M.O clearly not enough for corals.The very next day...t5's were back in effect...about a week later my Sebae anemone turn back to a nice tan color..my corals were stretching out,nice and vivid again.This was the most expensive blunder ($500) Ive made in this hobby..hate for someone else to make the same mistake...overall..nice shimmer effect...nice lunar light...cuts back on power...good for a F.O.W.L.R..but clearly not enough intensity for a reef...I.M.O

90 GALLON DISPLAY
IN DISPLAY TANK;

180 LBS FIJI PREMIUM LIVE ROCK
95 LBS LIVE SAND
(2) 50 GPH POWERHEADS(CARBON STUFFED)
(2) 1300 GPH POWER HEADS

LIGHTING IN DISPLAY;
T5 NOVA EXTREME 48 INCH(6 BULB FIXTURES)
48 INCH MARINLAND L.E.D REEF LIGHTING(18K)
48 INCH (24) BLUE LED MOONLIGHT

30 GALLON SUMP
IN SUMP;
40 LBS LIVE SAND
15 LBS FIJI PREMIUM LIVE ROCK.
35 LBS REFUGIUM RUBBLE
PHOSBAN REACTOR(150)
10 WATT U.V STEROLIZER (DONT HAVE AN ICK PROB)BUT BETTER SAFE THEN SORRY
CORALIFE SUPER SKIMMER(120)
(ELITE) 200 WATT HEATER
(10)MANGROVES

LIGHTING ;
IN SUMP
30-90 WATT FLOOD LAMP

FISH
SAILFIN TANG,YELLOW TANG,BLUE HIPPO TANG,DIAMOND WATCHMAN GOBY,SIZZORTAIL GOBY,BLUE DAMSEL(6) BLUE GREEN CHROMIS(4)ENGINEER GOBY

CORALS AND INVERTS
BLUE RICORDEA,SEBAE ANENOME,DUNCAN POLYPS,BROWN BUTTON POLYPS,RED AND PURPLE MUSHROOMS COLONY(6) SKUNK SHRIMP (3) CAMEL SHRIMP(3)PEPPERMINT SHRIMP(8)MEXICAN TURBO SNAILS,(6)CERITH SNAILS,(4)ZEBRA SNAILS(5)RED LEGGED HERMIT CRABS,(5) BLUE LEGGED HERMIT CRABS,

IN SUMP;
(2)GREEN EMERALD CRABS
(5) BLUE LEGGED HERMIT CRABS
(5) RED LEGGED HEMIT CRABS



TO tHoSe WhO rOcK...WiTh A fiLTeR sOcK.....
>>>>>>> I SOLUTE YOU <<<<<<<<

 

NITTINID, whoever sold you that Marineland light should be getting that light back if they recommended it to you for corals.


There are a handful of units that actually put out decent PAR levels using 1-watt LEDs, but they use a bunch of them and aren't as efficient as they could be if they used better quality LEDs.


The 3-watt LEDs we commonly refer to as "top tier" LEDs (Cree and Rebel, specifically) aren't the most efficient LEDs because they are 3-watters, it's just that this is where the technology is at the moment. The 3-9 watt type LED emitter (such as the XML) just seems to be in that "sweet spot" for most efficiency.


Hopefully one day we'll see 1 watt and 1/2 watt LEDs that are just as efficient (ie, potent) and affordable, because I think when it comes to color blending, we definitely want MORE LEDs in a smaller space, and using smaller, lower wattage LEDs would do this quite well. You can do it right now with costly Cree and Rebel LEDs and just drive them at a lower current (300mA) as "1-watt LEDs" but you'd need a bunchovem'.

 

Yeah I called up Marineland and told them what had happened and that I would like to send it back.(I was willing to meet him half way and take store credit).They assured me that these were more then enough for me.To make a long story short after 2 weeks of calls and emails...it was evident if it wasn't an exchange or broken they weren't taking it back.So I took the box filled it with my neighbors dog's **** with a note giving my product review as well as thanking them for robbing me of $500 and mailed it back to Marineland...effem if they can't take a joke!

heres the link to the site
LED Aquarium Lighting | Reef Lighting Producing Natural Looking Light

 

Yeah that light is fine for being able to see in the tank... But useless for coral.

 

It is a terrible fixture. Jonjon? What led pendant did you use?

 

I used a Rapid LED kit to start with. Custom wrapped in plexi with a huge fan on it.

Each pendant is 12 RB and 12 CW with 60 degree lenses on both. This is on a 6x9 heatsink.

I will post a pic when I get home tomorrow.

 

Why would you "set aside" these real-world possibilities that are the norm in so many cases? With fixed-spectrum units, we have no info on what or how many we need for a particular application outside of full coverage for the tank. And while dimmable fixtures might seem to be the answer, here's another real-world issue:

http://www.3reef.com/forums/led-aquarium-lighting/led-degradation-over-time-131129.html

As long as these problems persist, I won't consider LED a viable replacement for reliable, proven technology, but rather, an inferior alternative that should be priced accordingly. IOW, I refuse to pay top-dollar to be a beta-tester for something that may take several more years to perfect.