No Luck with LPS corals.

Ok I got my levels and they are as follows...

Salinity 1.026
Ammonia 0 ppm
pH 8.0
Nitrite 0 ppm
Nitrate 10 ppm
Phosphate 0.25
Calcium 580 mg/L (ppm)
Carbonate Hardness 161.1 ppm KM

PghSteeler I am adding a carbon and GFO reactor this weekend.
In addition I do target feed the corals, either Prime Reef or Mysis shrimp.

 

Ouch on the Ca level.

If you add Strontium and Iodine you need to test for it, both can quickly become toxic.

Here is a nice link with values.

Reef Aquarium Water Parameters by Randy Holmes-Farley - Reefkeeping.com

 

Thanks for the info. Is there a way to bring the Ca levels down our just wait for them to get used up?

 

Got the Magnesium tested and it is way low.
With a Salifert Magnesium test kit it took the whole 1 ML of reagent, I'm not sure what that equaled, but I know it was really low.

Some one earlier I believed asked how far the lights are from the corals and they are about 12 - 15" away from the coral, depending on where they are placed in the tank.

I'm confused about Magnesium. Marine Depot has Red Sea Reef Foundation C Supplement which seems to be 1 thing that you add to the water depending on how much you need to raise it. For example they say 1ml will raise the Mg level of 100 liters (25gal) by 1ppm.

BRS has a 2 part system. MAGNESIUM CHLORIDE & MAGNESIUM SULFATE that you mix together in RO/DO water and then dose or drip into the tank.

Which way is it supposed to be done or is either acceptable?

 

Still having hard times with my LPS corals.
I have stopped dosing Kent Marine Essential Elements, Liquid calcium, Iodine, and Stronium and Molybdenum, because my levels seem to be pretty consistent from week to week, almost like nothing is taking in the elements.

My Gonipora and Torch coral have stop receding, but are not coming back yet.
My Duncan has just started to recede.

My current levels are...

Levels as of Saturday 3/9/13

Salinity 1.026 via Deep Six Hydrometer
Amonia 0 ppm via API Master Test Kit
Ph 7.8 via API Master Test Kit
Nitrites 0 ppm via API Master Test Kit
Nitrates 0 ppm via API Master Test Kit
Phosphates 0.03 ppm via Hannah Checker
Calcium 450 ppm via Red Sea Reef Foundation Pro Multi Test Kit (Ca,Alk,Mg)
Alkalinity 9.0 dKH via Red Sea Reef Foundation Pro Multi Test Kit (Ca,Alk,Mg)
Magnesium 1360 ppm via Red Sea Reef Foundation Pro Multi Test Kit (Ca,Alk,Mg)

 

It might not have anything to do with your problem, but I'd ditch the hydrometer and get a refractometer with some calibration fluid. For every positive comment, that hydrometer has a negative one about its accuracy. Calibrating the refractometer is crucial. My brand new one was off quite a bit. Don't assume they are accurate out of the box. Years ago before I new better, my tank was at 1.030 to 1.035 without knowing it until I got some calibration fluid and checked it.

Coralife Deep Six Hydrometer - User reviews

I've been reading that some leathers are fairly toxic to other corals. Maybe try running some carbon for a while just in case.

My problem with a similar situation for a while was with alk falling too low and the swing of bringing it back up. Seemed to cause a lot of problems, but your alk looks good at least at its current level.

Not sure how you do top off, but I use to cause havoc by dumping in rodi about 5 gallons at a time on a 120g. I've got a top off system now that keeps the salinity stable.

After learning from all of these mistakes, my LPS grows very well and I'm not losing corals like I did several years ago.

 

Those are much better parameters.

Ca is at the top end of the recommended range of 380 to 450ppm
Alk is in the middle of the recommended range of 7 to 11 dKH
Mg is at the top of the recommended range, but there seems to be more leeway on the range, of 1250-1350ppm.

I second getting a refractometer as hydrometers do not give consistent readings due to air bubbles on the hydrometer or mineral build up on it and other things also. Keep the refractometer calibrated and do it regularly and fairly often.

 

vtecintegra I do run carbon and GFO in a reactor.

vtecintegra & 2in10 I will be getting a refractometer, but with limited funds I have to put somethings off.

In the meantime I use the hydrometer and have the water double checked at my LFS who has a refractometer, so I'm confident it is pretty accurate.

Tops offs are done manually right now, only about 1/2 gallon of RO/DI from my LFS, put in once a week put into the sump when needed, not necessarily a 1/2 gallon all at once.

Tank levels for the past couple of months, since I started this post.

 

How often are you changing carbon and gfo? And if running in a single reactor I would recommend a dual stage.

Gfo and carbon need to be replaced regularly. And gfo is nitrates, and phosphates are high should be replaced more frequently as it will deplete fast. Carbon also should be changed more often at this point till you get these down. Leaving them set for to long can actually leach stuf back into your tank.

 

Currently my levels are as follows.
Salinity 1.026 via Deep Six Hydrometer
Amonia 0 ppm via API Master Test Kit
Ph 7.8 via API Master Test Kit
Nitrites 0 ppm via API Master Test Kit
Nitrates 0 ppm via API Master Test Kit
Phosphates 0.03 ppm via Hannah Checker
Calcium 450 ppm via Red Sea Reef Foundation Pro Multi Test Kit (Ca,Alk,Mg)
Alkalinity 9.0 dKH via Red Sea Reef Foundation Pro Multi Test Kit (Ca,Alk,Mg)
Magnesium 1360 ppm via Red Sea Reef Foundation Pro Multi Test Kit (Ca,Alk,Mg)

Nitrates O and Phosphate 0.03, how are those hiigh.

GFO is replace about every month, and carbon is replaced every 2 weeks, maybe sooner on both depending on how my levels are.

I will be changing both of them this weekend.