my sump design...approval please

ok all.

So just picked up my baffles from the glass shop. They used plexi vs glass. I even told the guy I wanted glass.

So...do I suck it up and pay for another set made or can I use the plexi?

 

The plexi will work fine

 

I've read about how plexi will expand and maybe bow the sump...even crack it?

Also, how the silicone doesn't stick to well. thoughts?

 

yes, acrylic can do all those things. The baffles should not fit tight, should be 1/8" gap. silicone the edges only and be sure to completely fill the gaps. this gives a bit of flexability incase of expansion - but there shouldn't be any. Once the water is in, the temp in our tanks rarely varies more than 2 or 3 degrees.
after the silicone is fully cured (24 hours) then seal all the edges with another bead of silicone on both sides of the baffle.
I have never seen one fail after being prepared this way.

 

Thanks!

As I mentioned, I just picked them up on my lunch break and so I don't have a chance to test fit them yet. I think the guy at the glass shop measured it precise side to side of the sump. I don't know if i have room for expansion. I guess I will see when I get home ;D

I guess I can dremel if needed...

 

So then, now we know all the intricate details of bubble traps.;D You mentioned you wanted the section next to the skimmer as a zone to get rid of bubbles and you would put your ATO there....

So ya, you put your ATO in the return section. The baffles in the other sections set water level, all your evaporation will be lost in the return chamber. So put your ATO there. Set it to the level of the baffles, any higher and it will set the water level higher than the baffle, lower will just be less room for water in the return section.

Then you do not need a "section" to rid your self of bubble... just a effective bubble trap after the skimmer section, so the next section can be a fuge or just a section to grow cheato. That is not the order I prefer, but it is better than just nothing.

 

Awesome! I've learned alot in this small thread

Powerman-given the dimensions of a 10 gallon. Do you think my baffles are the correct height? Obviously not going to fill all the way to the top to compensate for power loss back siphon.

So to recap -

• Reverse intake and return. Keeping the same baffle design.
• ATO in the return section.
• So I do have enough space for a small fuge.
• Plexi is fine as long as I have 1/8 gap to compensate for expansion.
• Use either Eshopps or CPR overflow (CPR can be hooked up to a aqualifter)

Missing anything ;D

 

just dont put any bags of carbon inbetween two acrylic baffles. i had 0 problems with mine till i decided to throw a bag of carbon between two of the baffles. now one of them has 'detached' from the silicone seal on either side. i have to drain the sump and redo the baffles

 

No they are too short, but that is really dependent on what your skimmer needs. Most run around 8-10 inches. I usually go for 10 so you can put the skimmer on a stand if need be. But 6 is pretty short. Obviously you need to put it where your skimmer would work best, and leave enough room for your return pump being off.

A 10g is pretty small, but certainly worth doing. You could try growing some cheato, but a fuge. I don't know. I prefer having the return in the middle so you can control the flow to the fuge. What you can do is just leave it like you have, and run your carbon of GFO in the space. A ball of cheato does not care about much. Flow does not really matter and it just needs light. Growing cheato will always help with nitrates.

 

My ball of Chateo was quite happy in my return section for a week or so while I got the rest of the sand I needed for the DSB. just be sure to use a sponge on the return intake and you wont have anything to worry about.
I don't recommend putting anything between your baffles, if you need to, design a tray that the overflow from the baffles can be forced over to hold your carbon and other resin bags on it's way to the return section.