Discussion in 'I made this!' started by Infantry1327, Jul 20, 2009.
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Yea he gave me a link to the device and that has defenetly been in my head as a option.
I found them. The name of the device is the Ocean's Motion valve. Here it is mounted atop a pump. It's top of the line equipment, from what I've read. Water shoots from each pipe alternatively. If I'm not mistaken, there are interchangable drums which can be purchased that can cause flow to go "around the clock" so to speak, or out of two pipes at a time, alternating, like 12 and 6, then 3 and 9 o'clock, etc.
Yea I was thinking about the super squirt compact.
CL's don't have much clout anymore since the wavemaking PH's have taken over.
CL's suck up a ton of electricity, even when comparing them to say several Korallias , tunzes, maximods, on wavemaking devices. I am not talking about the ones that turn the PH's on an off, but ones that ramp up and down from like 20% or so all the way to 100%. CL's also add risk of tank failure, way more maintenance, and can give nasty critters such as huge bobbit / eunicid worms places to live (in the PVC) while reducing your flow.
Cleaning PH's or stream type pumps is easy compared to trying to clean out holes that are connected to your tank way low in the water column.
I looked into doing a CL on my 193 g build, and I was quickly steered away.
Oceans Motions are about the only way I would even consider a CL now, but those are pretty $$$. For my upstairs tank of 300+ g I will do at some point after I get the 200g one done in the basement, I will probably go with OM.
For the most part these are old school tech, using wavemaking PH's is a much better idea... That is unless you CAN'T stand the sight of a a couple PH's.
The OM's do work very nicely and you can change the nozzles/ drums out to change flow.
One guy in our club has an OM 4 way on his 210g. If you plumb them in over the top, and not through the glass, you eliminate pretty much all the negatives about a CL. They are minimally invasive, more so than a traditional CL through the tank wall setup.
I apologize for not checking in on this thread in the past few weeks. Just busy, that's all
So I have been thinking about this tank alot and I found some flaws in my design, but I think I have it just about right now. The pics you are about to see are to size.
This one shows the overflow.
This one shows the return lines. The top 3 (yellow) are the return from the 25G refuge
The bottom 4 (red) are the return from the 55G sump. The current will be alternating via ocean motion.
Hear is the sump/refuge and some of the plumbing
This shows the overflow box with 2- 1" drains. But I am considering 2" for the sump to increase flow.
The sump and everything will be enclosed. This will also be a wet bar. The center cabnit over the sink will contain the R/O unit
I forgot to draw in the barrel for the ATO water. It will be in the cabinet next to the sump.
Also the whole back wall above the back cabinet is mirrored so I am going to have my uncle install a nice glass bottle rack for all the liquor and depending on the size of the RO bucket I may try and fit in a mini fridge for some beer or mixers.
I just came across this thread. Looks interesting, are you any closer to building this awesome tank? ;D
DIY Do It Yourself Aquarium Chiller - DIY Do It Yourself Aquarium Chiller
Looks good infantry.
Are you sure you want a CL though?
I just re read the points RS quoted otty on abut CL, and ALL of them minus the last point are not true. Actually, even that last point about cords can be thrown out too if you use vortech pumps.
You will definitely use more electricity with a CL than with powerheads. You could skip drilling and using bulkheads for the CL by bringing the return piping down from the top of the tan with the OM. A local reefer has it that way on is 210. I can probably get pics if you want to see.
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