Master Mechanic offering free repair advice;

That would suck.
The car is somewhat new to me.

As in it didn't smell burnt, I have a very sensitive nose....unfortunately at times...LOL

 

I hear some squaking/ groaning sound.... so do I need to change that out?
Hope it's that easy of a fix...if it's easy and fairly cheap that is.
As it has 2 other issues common to that model yr. The anti-lock brake light (probably the proportional valve) and the 4WD shift motor.

 

like alpha sead change the fluid never a bad idea but i dont beleve it takes 80w90 in that year anyway refer to the owners manual i beleve its just dextron fluid odly enough check the clutch master for small fluid leaks there a bit of a pain to replace and its best to bench bleed it should be avalible with hose and thats the way you will want it

unfortunately the other concerns im no help as i have only done heavy work on fords engine,trans and alot of axels

t5 trans do have sincro issues but what tiped me off is you have to put in reverse to get it into first in doing that your stoping the mainshaft from spinning to help it to get into gear witch is leading me away from sincros

 

Guys, slave cylinder issues remain constant/consistent thru all gears at all speeds- so please consider this. Shift speed/ difficulty going into gear can be clutch related but then the customer would note such- like my car slips as I step on the gas, or, the engine rev's up when I step on the gas hard- granted explanations can vary, but they are the same in the end.

We are here to help, the more information you give us, the better (and more able) we can help you.

 

On the contrary... think...what do syncro's do? Then look at the way the trans is set up- internally.

 

could possably be the through out bearing. rev. to first sounds familure had the same prob w/ my 93 mustang.

but know 4 my ? for the audi guy.......i got a A4 1.8 turbo. 2002 ...i think it jumped time. so i asume motor is shot... possable vaulve prob. lookin to sell turbo set up and intirour leather heated may i add.... i looked into blue book and engine swap costs. i am thinkin $2000 ....any advice


bryan

 

Full interior? Good shape? Post that up on vwvortex should go quick as far as the motor really would depend on the damage is it a stock turbo? K03? K04? Might have some damage as well. How did you grenade the motor? Boost spike?


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As stated the car doesn't slip and doesn't rev up abnormally. The other 2 items mentioned are each about 250 in parts and an hr in labor according to Edmunds.

I just kinda need a ballpark idea and $ figure to fix the main issue with it...so I can save up and know whether or not the mechanic is any good or not.

 

well first- for the Audi guy- if the belt broke, or it jumped time, a very easy way to tell if the motor (cyc. head) is damaged is to perform a cyc. pressure test, also known as a leak down test:

to do this you need a few things, a leak down tester, air pressure and the ability to under stand where top dead center is for each piston.

mind you, the timing belt will have to be replaced and correctly timed before you can test this- or, you can manually do this by removing the valve cover and turning the camshafts accordingly.

When the piston is at TDC (top dead center) both valves should be closed, at this point when applying air pressure, the piston will try to move, if it does not try to move and you hear air escaping from the cyc. head, it will be from either the intake manifold (throttle body in your case) or, out of the exhaust pipe, or both if both valves are bent, do this for each cyc. and let me know- then you will know how to proceed from there.

 

I dont wanna steal your thread or anything but I can also help answer some questions if any one needs help with just about any car, But i own a 406whp Honda and 370whp wrx now only putting that out there since you created the thread