you are right but theres a few other factors, as we have discovered the direct spectrum conversion from mh to led is not the same. Ive also discovered through looking at different spectrographs that using cree cool whites at 8-10k and adding green and red will not give you the spectrum you are looking for. If you look the peak in chlorophyll a and b of a 20k or 14k mh you will see the cree cool white gives a much stronger spectrum a lot higher in the red zone, of above 650nm. From what i have research this is not a good spectrum to focus in on. Adding green and reds to this color will only make the spectrum of 550 and up, also much stronger in the 600nm spectrum and up. versus looking at a spectrogrpah of a 14k-16k led the spectrum is much much closer to that of a 14k or 20 k mh bulb. The 14k and 20k leds are more blue and less yellowish red. giving a better spectrum than cool white and adding green and red in my opinion. You can add all the colors you want, but if it isn't giving proper levels of the light that corals need, whats the point. It can look colorful to you but it doesn't mean thats the natural color of the coral reflecting its natural luminence. And lastly you make mention of the 170 lumens per watt. That is important in architectural lighting applications and automotive and other factors. For aquariums, WHen i see every user running their whites at 50% and under, who cares how efficient it is, You are already getting much less by dimming it so much. May as well use a lower powered led at 70-100%. To me that would be efficient... no? I would love nothing more for you to prove me wrong, im a big led believer, But In my opinion of working with leds for years and using them in my aquarium for almost 2 now. Ive gone back to mh and loved it. Im trying a new led fixture that uses mostly 14k and 20k leds for the white and have noticed 100 times a difference versus using the cree cool whites. But still not as good growth as my 250w ushio 20k.