KILL CYANO!?! week 5 and it's getting irratating

Discussion in 'Algae' started by tgood, Sep 23, 2010.

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  1. yamaharider73

    yamaharider73 Kole Tang

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    I wouldnt think the lights would be killing the fish and inverts. may be possible but I wouldnt think so. other than that I would say it would have to be something with the water paramaters. I hope you get it figured out soon.
     
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  3. yamaharider73

    yamaharider73 Kole Tang

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  4. sailorguy

    sailorguy Torch Coral

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    With your other parameters reading good,and losing inverts quickly it might be good to test for copper.If this was a used tank it's possible copper based meds were used in the past without you knowing.On the cyano problem,if you have no light dependant corals in the tank you could go lights out for a long period,this should help rid you of the cyano and any other algae you have.Your clownfish would be fine.
     
  5. Reeron

    Reeron Blue Ringed Angel

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  6. sostoudt

    sostoudt Giant Squid

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    If you do decide to dose the cyano bacteria killers and watch you parameters you should be fine, I have used them in multiple set ups, as well as many other people. What you shouldn't do is get impatient and dump in more.
    They shouldn't wipe out your filter how ever they will release all the nutrients stored in the cyano which is why WC are critical after using them.
     
  7. tgood

    tgood Sea Dragon

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    All my equipment/tanks/plumbing parts/etc. are brand new. I never buy anything used and yes I run carbon. About 2 or 3 months ago I replaced my carbon/ceramic in my canister filter (marineland C-360) with all new media. I don't understand how any of that could be an issue either because as I mentioned I have had my tanks for 3 years now and never had any issues like this that couldn't be resolved within a week. So I could turn my tank lights completely off for an entire week and my clowns would be ok?
     
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  9. xmetalfan99

    xmetalfan99 Giant Squid

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    The ceramic balls are biomedia. You removed biological filtration when you did that.

    Fish do not need lights to live.

    I would test for Cu as well.
     
  10. Reeron

    Reeron Blue Ringed Angel

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    I hope that is not the last time you replaced the carbon. Carbon should be replaced every 2-4 weeks. I do every 3. Less, more often, is better than a lot every several months.
     
  11. Reeron

    Reeron Blue Ringed Angel

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    Do you purchase your RO/DI water, or do you make your own? I've found that those who purchase it are often surprised by how terrible the maintenance schedule is on the RO unit where they purchase it (when they finally get the water tested for TDS). Most places do not replace the filters, or DI resin, even remotely close to soon enough.
     
  12. tgood

    tgood Sea Dragon

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    I purchased a Spectarpure 3 stage RO/DI unit and a booster and use the system to make my own water. The unit is 1 month old. As for the carbon this is the first time I replaced the media since I bought the canister filter 3 years ago. It holds 3 carbon bags and has never been an issue for me. I don't see why I would need to replace the carbon every month.... seems a little overkill to me due to the fact that my tank was stable and growing very well before my transistion to the new tank/sump that I set up a few months ago. I am going to turn my lights off and try to kill off every type of algae that has been a problem. It was just green algae to start and last week brown algae "spores" started sprouting everywhere. Also, my water has a yellow "tint" to it and think it is just due to the lights because when I turn on my halides it looks clear and like it used to look. I know the lights aren't cheap but I think I should've just stuck with the actinics vs. switching to daylight bulbs. Thanks for all the suggestions though, it has helped me realize I have thought of everything that was suggested and unfortunately none of the things mentioned are the problem.... I think it is just a matter of letting the tank go for a while and eventually it will get better.