Interceptor treatment.

Discussion in 'Coral Health' started by Thatgrimguy, Apr 24, 2012.

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  1. Corailline

    Corailline Super Moderator Staff Member

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    It is a dry heat, yeah right !
     
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  3. Thatgrimguy

    Thatgrimguy Flying Squid

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    Took some pics today! Here are a couple of the affected montis.

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    Tyree Undata
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    You can see the undata turning brown and the rim not showing on part of it. I could visibly see the bugs on this colony.

    The stressed acro to the left was a result of a hairy acro crab... I'm pulling my 40b frag tank out of line and turning it into a proper QT. I have enough parts to make it work pretty easy. I'll change water with my auto water change on a daily basis. So the 40b with a 30g sump will get about 80g of w/c a month from my main tank. I'm thinking that will be enough to ensure exact parameters between the two. I'm not making this mistake again.
     
  4. barbianj

    barbianj Hammer Head Shark

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    I have to agree with Cheryl here ::). I have experienced "accelerated growth" and better polyp extension both times I dosed with Interceptor for amphipods. I now believe that the growth and extension are what should have been normal all along. Besides killing off the amphipods, there were extremely tiny "bugs" traveling along the rims of the acans and some other LPS. All of them died after the treatment.
     
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  5. gabbyr189

    gabbyr189 Bubble Tip Anemone

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    +1. You must complete the treatment 3 times. The first time is to kill all of the arthropods themselves. Since the treatment does not kill the eggs, you perform this a week later. A week is the perfect timing to kill the arthropods after they hatch, but before they lay new eggs. The third treatment is to kill any arthropods that somehow escaped the timeframe.

    Here is a pretty detailed writeup that I wrote about my success with the treatment. Several months later, there is not a red bug in sight.
    http://www.3reef.com/forums/coral-diseases/successful-red-bug-treatment-127399.html
    Good luck!!
     
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  6. Thatgrimguy

    Thatgrimguy Flying Squid

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    Anyone see any reason I couldn't run some chemiclean at the same time as the interceptor since I have the same directions on both anyhow? My 40b frag tank is just full of cyano.
     
  7. gabbyr189

    gabbyr189 Bubble Tip Anemone

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    Honestly I would just remove the cyano the natural way... Extra chemicals are just going to complicate your situation. The cyano (and other types of algae) will just keep on coming back if you don't eliminate the excess nutrients (and source of them) that are feeding it...
     
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  9. Thatgrimguy

    Thatgrimguy Flying Squid

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    I didn't have enough flow from the sump to the 40b is why it flared up. But now I'm having a hard time getting rid of it. All phosphate and nitrate read 0 and the main tank is completely cyano and algae free. I guess now that the root of the problem is fixed it should fix its self in time anyhow.
     
  10. gabbyr189

    gabbyr189 Bubble Tip Anemone

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    Haha we all went through it! I am still in my weekly wc habit! What test kits/digital testers are you using? They aren't giving you the right value. On the other hand, if the tests are in fact reading 0, you may still have a source of these nutrients.. The algae may be consuming all the nitrate and phosphate at the same rate as it is being produced, resulting a "net" reading of 0.
     
  11. Thatgrimguy

    Thatgrimguy Flying Squid

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    No, I really don't I run ULNS based on my salifert tests and my LFS's red sea test kits. This cyano was from me having a lot of fresh sand, and rock in the 40b while not having very much return from my sump that my main tank is hooked up too. I just added this frag system and I didn't give it much time to cycle because I plumbed it into my main system anyhow. Now I'm just being impatient, lol. There is no visual algae or cyano in my main tank.
     
  12. gabbyr189

    gabbyr189 Bubble Tip Anemone

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    Patience is the key... Do what I say, not what I do ;D