Ich update and advice

yvr · Jun 20, 2009

Hi Coral Reefer...

I think you may have gotten a bit mixed up in your description of the marine ich disease. Marine Ich is actually Cryptocaryon irritans which are protozoans whilst Amyloodinium ocellatum which is commonly called Marine Velvet are dinoflagellates. Both are nasty things to have in any aquairum though.

coral reefer · Jun 21, 2009

Thanks guys!
Yes, I meant Cryptocaryon Irritans(saltwater ich), not marine velvet!!!Sorry reefers, must have been trying to get out the door to the pet shop yesterday when writing this.

lotzofish · Jun 22, 2009

Last week I wrote an article about crypt that may be useful in this instance. If you need more guidance please check here: http://www.3reef.com/forums/diseases/ultimate-saltwater-ich-crypt-info-post-66950.html#post640322

If you need any other help, please feel free to ask.

aussiejodie · Oct 1, 2009

coral reefer said: ↑

Dosing anything in your main tank, especially housing fish that are not effected with any form of parasitic, viral, bacteriological or fungal disease can become problematic.
The lifecycle of marine ich(amyloodinium ocellatum) is a simple process that many aquarists are not aware of as to the time table of the cycle and its effects to life. The parasite begins as a trophant that attaches itself to the tissue of fish(ie. scales, fins and gills). As a response to the ich on the fishes body they release a mucus covering that encompasses the parasite causing the commonly depicted white-sugar sized spots on the fish. After about 3 days these trophants will fall off the fish as tomants, causing a false sense of relief as you begin to think that the ich has been removed. Instead, what has taken place is the parasite has left the host to form cysts and divide(3-7 days). *******it is during this time that the addition of medications such as formalin, melachite green, methylene blue, hypo salinity and copper are the most effective*********!!!! How many of you knew this????
Once these cysts break apart and divide, and depending on the water temperature, will form numerous dinospores that will find a host, again, finding the fish in your tank, causing these white spots to become evident again and even more prolific.
It is best to not raise water temperature at this time as, yes it can speed up the cycle of the ich, however, it also causes more stress on the fish due to decreased oxygen levels in your water.
The hyposalinity process is an effective procedure though it can also plague inverts and bacteria as well. Dropping the water's salinity level to below 1.013 is the best scenario to combat marine ich. This procedure basically causes the ich cells to blow up like balloons as the ich cells can not control the osmosis through their semi-permeable membranes. Once they blow up enough, they will pop since their cell walls can not handle the pressure between that inside their walls and the ambiant environment outside.
Stress, for the most part is the number one factor for the development of ich in an aquarium. trying to purchase healthy specimens at your local pet shop, reducing the time between shipping and collecting, healthy diet, compatible fish and ideal water parameters/temperature! are crucial in helping to alleviate this devasting disease from crippling your tank and its inhabitants!!!
Click to expand...

How long do you keep your salinity at 1.013 for and how fast should it be reduced.

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Ich update and advice

yvr Skunk Shrimp

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aussiejodie Spanish Shawl Nudibranch

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Ich update and advice

yvr Skunk Shrimp

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