Discussion in 'Algae' started by GSUBiology, Nov 26, 2012.
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is this a good media to use?
D-D RP-10 ROWAphos GFO Phosphate Removal Media
Remember, there are thousands of species of dinos. And Dinos can live along in mats with algae, cyano, bacteria, fungus etc... changing the apperance. However, the little hairs are the clue that is is dinos, but a better picture might help.
Also, as to ROWPHose, it is good, although, I think the Bulk Reef Supply brand is the most cost effective. Also, Premium Aquatics has some good generic stuff.
imo this is the best way to deal with dino
Problem Dinoflagellates and pH by Randy Holmes-Farley - Reefkeeping.com
Algae need phosphate to grow, and based on the amount of algae (and/or dinos) in the tank, phosphate is definitely not 0. The API phosphate test kit is very low resolution, and does not provide a good indication of phosphate levels in your tank unless they are very high.
Whether it is dinos or some other algae species, I think using GFO will be a big help. Combine that with manual removal, and the tank will look a lot better next week.
The type of algae is somewhat academic and I don't want to lose track of that. Being a "dino like" algae, the best solution is probably going to be some sort of "dino" treatment (although those can vary by tank and individual algae). There is a lo posted on the net about dino treatments. GAC, GFO, followed by lights out (once the tank is in progressing forward substantially) are a good start. There is some debate about water changes and whether or not you should do them to "starve" our the algae. Personally, I have had better luck doing them, than not doing them with "dinos" but many people report the opposite. I'll let you search the endless supply of dino topics though.
Yes, in fact, they do. That is why all plastics that you drink or eat from are "PP" or "LDPE". The VAST majority of plastics used in most containers, like storage bins, garbage cans, decorative planters, models and the like are made from Plastic #3 and Plastic #7 because they're much cheaper. They leak just about the full gambit of chemicals...which is why it's illegal to use them for anything that will be used for food or drink.
So when you buy that little tub bin, chances are that every time you mix water in it, you're dumping chemicals into the tank.
There's a really good reason you can buy plastic bins and cans for 10 bucks when a commercial grade can of the same size cost 3 to 4 times that amount.
I don't want to de-rail the thread, but plastic #3 is PVC, which includes PVC piping. Plastic #7 is "other", which includes acrylic. So it isn't as cut and dry as basing your decision on the # on the bottom of the container.
I'm not sure what the "full gambit of chemicals" exactly is. Which specific plastics leach silicate?
PVC can not be used on a hot water line or in any cookware. Reason: the heat causes the chemical release.
Same with number 7.
PVC is used in drainage and cold water lines only. Anything above 80 degrees can cause problems. That's why CPVC is used in hot water applications. Acrylic is right out. Even cars acrylic paint still breaths chemicals up to 3 years after it dries.
Again, neither are good and should not be used at all. Simply buy a commercial grade container made of PP or LDPE and you have no issues at all. They're not even possible.
it is hard for phosphate test kits to actually work. One reason you are reading 0 is that all of the phosphates are being taken up by the algae growing in the tank.
So which plastics leach silicate?
PVC and acrylic are safe to use in aquariums. Many aquariums are built out of acrylic, and use regular PVC for the plumbing. Those plastics do not cause silicate/algae problems. Temperature isn't relevant here as we are not talking about hot water lines (nobody heats their ATO).
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