How do I fix this?

The noise is worse than you can hear on here. There are 2 holes drilled in the cap, one small one and one larger one.

 

Im assuming that this is a Durso stand pipe, but I dont see the curve. This is what it should look like.



luna

 

Here's a break down....

Make Your Own Durso Standpipe


Make Your Own Durso Standpipe - Exploded Parts List



Friday, 10 April 2009 03:44
Article IndexMake Your Own Durso Standpipe Parts of the Durso Standpipe Air Hole & Water Level Exploded Parts List All Pages Page 4 of 4
Exploded Parts List

The following is a break down of parts used to construct a Durso Standpipe. Only commonly used easy to find plumbing fittings are listed. Specialty fittings such as reducing male adapters and reducing couplings are not illustrated since these are not common fittings.


#10 - 1¼ PVC End-Cap with vent hole.
#9 - Connector made of 1¼ PVC. Glue to Tee, Teflon taped top for snug fit with End-Cap.

#8 - 1¼ PVC Street-Ell. Trim the connector for a compact design to help fit into smaller overflow chambers. Glued into Tee fitting. This is the water intake for the standpipe. Water level would be expected to be around the middle of this fitting.

#7 - 1¼ PVC Tee. Do not glue this onto the standpipe. Use Teflon tape on the standpipe for a snug fit. This allows it to be removed for height adjustment or maintenance.

#6 - 1¼ PVC Pipe. Sized long enough to get the End-Cap just about equal to the upper rim of the display tank.

#5 - 1¼ PVC Coupling. The stand pipe and reducer bushing are glued to this part.

#4 - 1¼ to 1 inch reducer bushing.

#3 - Connector made of 1 inch PVC. This should be glued into the reducer bushing. If you have a slip bulkhead, this inserts directly into the bulkhead — use Teflon tape for snug fit into the bulkhead.

#2 - OPTIONAL: 1 Inch PVC Male adapter - only needed on threaded bulkheads. You may want to attach to connector with Teflon tape to allow for a quick yank removal from bulkhead. Use Teflon tape on threads before inserting into bulkhead.

#1 - Bulkhead. The opening at the bottom of your overflow chamber to allow water to drain out to the sump. This drawing shows a threaded bulkhead.





luna

 

sorry, didn't realize that the camera cut it out, but yes the curve is on the other side lol my bad!

 

Is there a vent hole near the top?



luna

 

Luna – excellent and informative post !

My interpretation was that the curve was to the inside and we simply can not see it in the video. I suspect that the plumbing is running horizontally under the tank rather than a down hill angle that would permit the air to travel up and out. If this is case I would suggest re-plumbing under the tank to include an angle or the addition of a vent tube that would release the air and stop the flushing effect.

 

Yup, the drain has to be a straight, uninterrupted, downward flow. He may also have a snail caught inside the drain.



luna

 

its a brand new tank, just turned on the pumps today. I will put up a pic of the drain in a min.

ok, here it is made of 2 inch PVC with all 45's

 

Back to Luna's question - do you have a vent hole at the top? you are getting a flushing effect because of air build up and your plumbing looks good.

 

It could be like mine and overpower the drain, tryin tuning back the pump with a ball or gate valve on the output of the pump. Is it essential to have the 1 1/4" standpipe reduce to a 1"? mine is 1" all the way.