Discussion in 'Water Chemistry' started by mdbostwick, Nov 20, 2014.
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I have done many threads on converting the second unneeded carbon into a DI over the years and on many reef forums. A search should bring some of them up but basically you unscrew the nylon nipple between the two carbon lids, move the 90 degree elbow on the last carbon to the out on the middle carbon, turn the now empty canister lid 90 degrees so the inlet and outlet face back to front, plumb the RO out line to the back of the new DI canister then out the front and up to the horizontal if you choose to keep it. If you do keep the horizontal I would move it down so it sits vertical, filling from the bottom and exiting the top and pack the resin as tightly as possible so there are no voids or loose resin which provides poor contact time.
I am using the .5 or 1 micron spectrepure carbon block. How long would those typically last? I replaced both at the same time, would the second one still be good if i took it off and it dried out and i used it later or should i just use the second one now and discard the first carbon?
Sediment filters and carbon blocks should be changed every 6 months.
I've been using a WG Mfg. with grfeat results. I start at TDS 140 though.
Could you PM me about the RP cutoff I sent you, the payment?
How do i go about doing this? Also there are a bunch of choices on the DI cartridges from Spectrepure. Which one should I use?
In Spectrapure's FAQ section they have a link to a nomograph you can use to calculate the CO2 if you know the alkalinity and pH.
Their best all around reef DI resin is the SilicaBuster or Super SilicaBuster which lasts about 30% longer for only a few $$ more. If you have a dual DI then the MaxCap in the first position and SilicaBuster in the second is the best choice and what their top end MaxCap systems use.
Wanted to let you know I got my rodi all refreshed using your recommendations for the membrane and resin. I really appreciate all your help.
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