High Performance LED Kits from RapidLED

pre-made:
Results for Nano Retrofit Kits
and DIY:
Results for DIY Retrofit Kits

 

Well, yes, Dingo is more correct. I was only thinking in terms of the DIY kits.

For heat sink choices, as I was referring to:
Results for Heat Sinks

 

OK I see.

I see it now under Heat Sinks on their homepage.

Hey look, I'm a multi-quoting animal now. ;D

 

I wish this thread came up a couple weeks ago before I redid my MH setup. I have been toying with notion of doing a LED exclusive light setup for a while. Sooo...

I just ordered the dimmable 48 LED kit w/60 degree optics, 4 - 6x9 heat sinks & 4 fans from Rapid LED. All for way less than my current MH setup. Great customer service so far, really fast email resposes. (Thanks again Mike!) Unfortunately he didn't have the drilled heat sinks in stock and I couldn't wait until Monday to ship so I got the undrilled ones. No biggie I have a drill press & taps.

I also got an ALC for the Reef Keeper so it'll do the sinrise/sunset and moon phases too. Does anyone have any data on the ALC's moon light port output? DA is pretty tight lipped about it. Thier pods are cheap but DIY is more fun!

As soon as everything arrives I'll start a DIY thread if there's interest.

;D;D;D;D

 

So when do 3reefers get a RapidLED discount? For promotion and support, of course.

 

Color Temperature (CCT) does not Equal Spectrum

I was just at Macna at the Joshi talk. He mentioned CCT does not equal Spectrum, so you may have two lights, both set at 14k, the same color, but one will produce more light in the wavelengths your corals need than the other.

A RGB LED has 3 led dies integrated into one packaged 'led.' The combination of intensities of the 3 led dies results in a color temperature. Each led produces a 'peak' in spectrum. Blue LEDs will peak at 450-465, red at 620-630, and Green at 520-535 (according to the Cree data sheets). Combine the three and you can get white light, but you won't have any spectral output in the wavelengths between the peaks. So, with a RGB led, below 450 will be weak, 465-520 will be weak, 535-620 will be weak, and 630+ will be weak. If your corals need spectrum in the weak ranges, the more expensive light might actually not produce enough PAR (photosynthetically available radiation) to grow your corals.

For now, I'm sticking with white and blue LEDs only.

 

This is very good information! and it is also where the LED only tanks get stuck in a color rut. Even with the full spectrum whites and the 465nm blues you are still not getting anything less than around 440nm. Although UV doesnt contribute to cct, it GREATLY contributes to PAR... and most of the halide bulbs we have now actually have a small but considerable amount of their PAR from UVA.
Did Sanjay touch on UV at all? I debate with him tooth and nail about the importance of UV all the time but he never wants to include it in his speeches or data... Just wondering if he has come around to publicly touching on my position yet? lol

 

do the mogul put out UVA? I was under the impression only HQI put out UV light.
I have heard flourscent proteins(causing the great colors you see) in corals may protect them from UV rays. So UV radiation may be link to coloration a bit.

 

Both lights (mogul / HQ) emit UV radiation. A mogul has the glass surrounding the actual element. This piece of glass filters out most of it, but some does pass. The HQI does not have this glass surrounding it. It emits a high amount of UV. Most HQI fixtures have a glass pane inset to do this function. This is why it is much worse to stare at a HQI bulb than mogul.

 

Yip when you get everything,start a nice build thread...and as for the alc,I have heard/read people using these had to use the beta version.I'm not to sure as of why.just google alc dimable leds..good stuff pops up..I would put up the link but I'm on my phone..good luck.