Help Fuge Build

Now I'm wondering if I should just do 4 baffles instead of 5...leaving the one on the left out. Any suggestions?

Brian

 

why mess with a tried and true config?

 

I love this design. The only problem i have found is you want a nice wide return. If the return is too small you will run out of water quickly due to evaporation or skimming. I use the same design

 

With the 40 breeder thats not a problem, return area is 12 wide and the min fill line is 7" to prevent the pump from pulling air. This leaves about twice as much space for back syphon coverage during a power outage than is actually needed..

 

I like this setup

 

Since this will be my 1st DIY build I will keep it simple and go with this set up. After figuring out the spacing and height of baffles I will give this a shot. Thanks.

Brian

 

This may help. your skimmer may need a platform to raise it to the proper water level to ensure correct operation. here is a drawing with recommended hight and width settings.

 

I agree with everything above and the design.
heres mine. works great.

 

Those are the exact dims I was coming up with on the baffles. As far as the fuge baffle, why cut the teeth at one end instead of all the way across? Also, is there an advantage to spacing another 1/2" as opposed to 1" between the baffles?

I do have to build a platform in the skimmer area. I have read that it needs to sit in about 6" of water. I have come up with skimmer area 8", return area 8" and fuge area 12" (give or take).

I forgot, should the baffles be a min. of 1/4"? I will be using polycast acrylic.

Brian

 

hope that helps

PS. be careful using the acrylic and allow the silicone to cure for 48 hours before water testing. Silicone does not bond to acrylic so it has to cure to the glass correctly or it will eventually fail. This is where getting glass baffles cut for you at the local glass shop for around $4 each has an advantage, and the glass shop can grind the edges so you won't cut yourself on them constantly.