fuge first??

Discussion in 'Refugium' started by IceDragon, Apr 17, 2004.

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  1. JohnO

    JohnO Moderator

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    Well, I think 2 inches above the top of the sand bed would be good. I wouldn't have too many though and not too big as you really only need a gentle water flow. In fact if you have a sand bed of reasonable depth ( 4 inches + ) it would act a like a small denitrator as long as the water flow was not too great.

    Even if it is in situ, and assuming it is made from Acrylic, you could simply make a few cuts with a small saw ( top to bottom )

    I'm not sure what effect this would have on phosphates, but I think that the flow generated by the return water would be sufficient and powerheads shouldn't be needed.


    John
     
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  3. Craig Manoukian

    Craig Manoukian Giant Squid

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    I have holes drilled in my baffling for the water flow JohnO describes.  Works like a charm! I drilled five, two low, two higher and one in the middle.
     
  4. dx7fd2

    dx7fd2 Sea Dragon

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    Thanks, John! I have seen three different ideas for the same concept. ;)

    1.) The holes or slots in the walls you are talking about. The slots also help stop larger critters from going over the wall into the return, along with putting a screen over the input to the return pump.

    2.) (controversial here) Creating a small, removeable, plenum under the refugium area that is boosted up allowing a small amount of water to flow under the refugium.

    3.) As Dave said, using a five gallon bucket filled RO, with a small pump in it, attached to a float valve that will act as an auto-topoff.

    I was planning on using glass for the baffles and the wall between the refugium and the return. If I go with option 3, shouldn't the float valve be in the return area? And where would you suggest the line coming out of the five gallon bucket be placed? Correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought it should fill the return area in case I forget to top off the refuge.
    [smiley=thinking2.gif]


    Or, do you think I should do both 1 and 3? That would mean using Acrylic or Lexan, (for small pieces like this I prefer Lexan because it cuts and drills so easily without chipping), for the baffles. I do not have the baffle material as of yet, so being true DIY guys, we can play with this idea for a while. ;D

    You two are being very helpful here!! [smiley=2thumbsup.gif]
     
  5. Craig Manoukian

    Craig Manoukian Giant Squid

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    FWIW I used plexiglass baffles in a 30 gallon long glass aquarium.
     
  6. JohnO

    JohnO Moderator

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    Here is what I would do

    1. If you are going to use glass for the walls, use 2 pieces for each wall. come up from the bottom 5 inches, leave a 1 inch gap and then use another 6 inch piece to complete the wall. You can always glue something into the gap like egg crate or gutter guard if you are concerned about 'escapees' :)

    2. Rather than a plenum, just use a 4 inch+ sand bed, it's the same thing really.

    Sorry but I didn't take into account your auto top up idea or it's placement in my previous post :)

    John
     
  7. IceDragon

    IceDragon Bristle Worm

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    i use plasta-light from Home Depot (found in the lighting sections as a light diffuser) in hopes of stopping escapies ... it is about 10USD for a 4X4 square
     
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  9. JohnO

    JohnO Moderator

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  10. Craig Manoukian

    Craig Manoukian Giant Squid

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    Cool link JohnO! Looks like a tacky addition to ye old aquascape, eh?
     
  11. JohnO

    JohnO Moderator

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    Craig,

    Yeah, lt would look like crap in a display tank, but as a quick fug in an existing sump it would be simple and cheap. :)

    John
     
  12. Craig Manoukian

    Craig Manoukian Giant Squid

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