Everything is slowly dying… What could be wrong???

Discussion in 'LPS Corals' started by eddie2OOO, Jun 13, 2014.

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  1. eddie2OOO

    eddie2OOO Spanish Shawl Nudibranch

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    That depends on the quality of tap water that is being filtered. It is 25-125. Apparently NYC water isn't that bad and I spoke to others who are using the same filtration, they change it after every 120 gallons
     
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  3. Corailline

    Corailline Super Moderator

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    It is a dry heat, yeah right !
    Ok, well.

    Then I would proceed with the water changes and if you do not see an improvement, I would thoroughly test out your water source. If your filtration device is functioning as advertised than you should not be seeing much in the way of algae growth unless you're overfeeding.

    In a 24 gallon tank water changes with RC weekly should keep your parameters within desired levels, you simply do not have enough corals or coralline or clams to utilize the big three that quickly. Alk is going to drop faster but water changes should keep you in the safe zones.

    Recalibrate your pH probe but do not use buffer, you'll run into problems correcting those values in such a small volume of water. I am inclined to think your probe is off, those values make no sense.

    If after all that you're left with lighting.
     
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  4. eddie2OOO

    eddie2OOO Spanish Shawl Nudibranch

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    Thank you for your help, I'll start with water changes today and will proceed every day for the next 5 days. I also thought my probe was out of line so I recalliborated it and used regular ph kit to verify, it all checks out. I'll update in a few days to show progress. Thanks again.
     
  5. Matt Rogers

    Matt Rogers Kingfish

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  6. Corailline

    Corailline Super Moderator

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    It is a dry heat, yeah right !
    You're, welcome.

    I will assume you have enough flow and that the temp is not swinging too dramatically.

    My logic, is that if you house your animals/corals in water reflecting values close to natural saltwater then chemistry is not your problem. Then rule out faulty testing. Next comes contaminants to your water source, chloramine.... After than you're left with lighting.
    Dosing in a small tank is a challenge, if you can get away from that then you should until you absolutely have to dose. Remember every time you dose for the a low alk value you do not have to dose Ca supplement, just test Ca to make sure you're not driving down that value.

    I do not know what to make of such a high pH in the am.

    For the heck of it test the pH of your water source.
     
  7. OPForest

    OPForest Fire Worm

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    The tap water filter is just DI. I would definitely check your tds.

    From what I understand it is the carbon section of an RODI that removes chlorine. you might be having a chlorine issue.
     
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  9. Mr. Bill

    Mr. Bill Native Floridian

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    There is a carbon block in there, but it's still an El Cheapo unit- he definitely still needs that TDS meter to monitor water quality rather than relying on the color-change medium. Without the sediment filter, RO membrane and wastewater drain, my guess is that the cartridge is spent long before 6 months or 125g. Definitely more expensive in the long run than a good quality RO/DI unit, regardless.

    JMO, but I believe you probably started with a water quality issue, double-guessed and changed lighting, then began testing and dosing, causing a wild array of parameter swings which just made matters worse. I agree with the others- get your water quality on target, make sure test results are accurate, and stabilize your tank with small, frequent water changes- no more dosing or buffering.
     
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  10. Vinnyboombatz

    Vinnyboombatz Giant Squid

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    +1 And rehome that Tang!!!!!:rolleyes:
     
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  11. Av8Bluewater

    Av8Bluewater Giant Squid

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    How long do you wait after mixing the salt before adding it to the tank?
    Are you using tap water conditioners?
     
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  12. eddie2OOO

    eddie2OOO Spanish Shawl Nudibranch

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    There is a carbon section on the bottom of the filter and I have an additional activated carbon in the sump.