Easy low maintenance tanks

Discussion in 'New To The Hobby' started by lindenska, Aug 1, 2012.

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  1. brunoboarder244

    brunoboarder244 Torch Coral

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    i would recommend against a hob filter they really dont do much for s/w.....sand and rock is the main form of filtration and a skimmer is what pick up large particulates and as far as bioload inverts and inverts+coral is a pretty low load....the easiest systems to run i would recommend some kind of all inclusive cubes (oceanic biocube, jbj nanocube, redsea max, etc...there are other brands that have similar tanks)....i would maybe think of selling of some of the equipment you do have and trying to pick one of the above tanks up, they're the easiest/cheapest option for a beginner
     
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  3. Seano Hermano

    Seano Hermano Giant Squid

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    Yes, that understanding is correct. Coral has a very minute bio-load when compared to that of any fish. Shrimp/crabs/snails have low bio-loads too...probably close to or a little more than that of coral. If you just have zoanthids, green star polyps, other hardy beginner corals, I see no isues there. Do weekly water changes of about 10% and top-off daily (manually or set up an ato system) and you can also run a HOB filter, modififed to be a refugium (to hold macro algae) and/or activated carbon media.

    I would however, be sure not to use tap water. Tap water has some nasty stuff in it (high TDS levels, copper, chlorine, to name a few) that I wouldn't want in a reef tank. This can lead to bacterial blloms/algae outbreaks, Buy an RODI or buy bottled water (ROD or premixed SW from fish store or distilled and buy your own salt, as I have been doing).
     
    Last edited: Aug 2, 2012
  4. lindenska

    lindenska Plankton

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    Aged water is ok?

    In my freshwater tank, my fish's waste is my plants' gain. But saltwater tanks have no beneficiary to invertebrate/fish waste, right? I thought coral would naturally filter that stuff out, but i see that they, like fish, need their own food and nitrate/nitrite isn't it.

    True, I will look into those beginner tanks. I'm just trying to see what info I'm missing from reading these articles online about equipment/maintenance/etc and what I currently have.

    Can you explain a little more about "topping off"? This is from evaporation? It is essential to do it everyday? Is it because as h20 evaporates, therefore leaving the water chemistry skewed a little more in the tank?
     
  5. brunoboarder244

    brunoboarder244 Torch Coral

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    eh to an extent they will but i would recommend frequent water changes....at first id do once a week atleast after time and thing stable out you could probably switch to every other week to once a month but remember the effort into the tank directly reflects how it looks(not saying it will look bad, more like not to its fullest potential)...and yes topping off is to replace the water that has evaporated, you use fresh water because the salt doesnt evaporate along with the water, it stays and raises the salinity
     
  6. Seano Hermano

    Seano Hermano Giant Squid

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    +1 to above. In contrast to freshwater/planted tanks, when SW tanks evaporate, the water goes away, but the salt stays behind. This now extra salt means your salinity level is higher than what it would normally be. Topping off the tank with freshwater (unsalted) will even out your salinity level once again. I keep my tank at about 1.026 specific gravity, or 35ppt. But anywhere in the range of 1.023 - 1.0265 is good. Soft corals are going to be more forgiving.

    A refractometer is highly suggested for accurately measuring your salinity level, but two hydrometers (rather than just one, so you can check them both and balance off each other) will work too for a little less money. As you invest more in the hobby, the refectometer is a very useful tool though.

    I really suggest weekly 10% water changes with newly mixed saltwater, especially if you don't have other forms of filtration. This will not only keep your nitrates/phosphates at apprpriate levels, but also replenish the calcium, magnesium, alkalinity and trace elements which are consumed by your corals. Most any salt will be fine for this, with some of the more expensive brands (and those dedicated to reef tanks) containing higher calc, mag, alk levels for better coral growth. Once again, you can get away with the less expensive brand. I think Instant Ocean will be fine for you as a beginner with softies. It will be about $20 for 50 gallons worth of salt mix. Use 1/2c salt per gallon.
     
  7. lindenska

    lindenska Plankton

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    Ok I get what you're saying.
     
    Last edited: Aug 2, 2012
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  9. lindenska

    lindenska Plankton

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    When you say freshwater do you mean water from the tap that has been left out for days or are we talking distilled water that is bought?

    How much does your specific gravity change in 1 day from evaporation?

    I just read somewhere that a guy's shrimp ate one of his coral. Is it common for some invertebrates (or shrimp only?) to eat coral?

    That specific gravity reading (1.023 - 1.0265) is for the fish, right? As you said, I may have more to work with if I keep coral only? or are the invertebrate in that above reading too?
     
  10. brunoboarder244

    brunoboarder244 Torch Coral

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    distilled water...definitely recommend investing in an RO/DI...depending on size of the tank but probably as much as almost .0005-.001 in smaller tanks per day
     
  11. Seano Hermano

    Seano Hermano Giant Squid

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    Sorry, by freshwater I just mean RODI or store bought water that does not have slat mixed in. Don't use straight tap water (even de-chlorinated) if you want a reef tank.

    I add about 2 cups of distilled bottled water to my tank per day. So about 1 gallon per week. I don't recall the exact change in salinity/ppt. I will have to check. I've gotten to the point where I can tell by eye if I need to top off.

    I also use 1 gallon per week for my water changes.

    Like Bruno said...an RODI will pay off in about 6 months - one year, depending on the size of the tank. It is a great investment, especially if the tank is larger. I don't have one, myself.

    EDIT: Actually, I find that fish don't have much of a problem with the salinity swings. I think it's the hard corals which you see the most changes in (long-term) and invertebrates as well, such as shrimp, which depend on even salinity levels for healthy molts. Just do your best to stay within that range. Pick one level (1.024 or 1.025 being a good starting point IMO) and try to stick with it.

    EDIT 2: I've not ever heard of shrimp eating coral, that I can remember. I've actually heard quite the opposite, with some large polyp stony corals, or anemones, taking in snails, crabs, shrimp, and sometimes even smaller fish.

    Some fish will nip at corals and/or clam mantles. Which corals will depend on the species of fish in question.
     
    Last edited: Aug 2, 2012
  12. lindenska

    lindenska Plankton

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    Ok. That clears up a few things. 2 gallons a week isn't that much (obviously more for a more normal sized sw tank).

    Yea, I ask for the salinity levels if I am not here for 2 days and unable to add distilled water to the tank, will the tank go belly up. I guess that's a no.