DIY unusual Refugium

Discussion in 'Refugium' started by RoloSaez, Jun 5, 2013.

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  1. Marshall O

    Marshall O Giant Squid

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    I was actually suggesting creating another compartment separate from the return section for the skimmer. So flow would go 'fuge, skimmer, return. 'fuge and skimmer sections would be constant heights due to your baffles. Return would vary with evaporation.
     
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  3. Zgetman

    Zgetman Ritteri Anemone

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    [​IMG]

    This image I moved the baffles over 8". This will give you more return section and the option to place your ATO in the return. I also raised the baffles to raise your water line in the skimmer section, and return section. Added an optional drain pipe in the fuge which can be any height you wish. I drew this as much to scale as possible. You only need enough room in the skimmer section for the skimmer. You can add all your other equipment in the return section.

    I hope this helps. Oh and these are just my opinions. There is more than one way to skin a cat, however mine is better, lol. Just kidding.
     
  4. Powerman

    Powerman Giant Squid

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    OK... you are getting a little out of the norm here.

    So, I understood your desire to put the 10g in the 55g for a fuge, and why you needed a return section like you want. There are people with big systems that have big tubs for sumps. They can't put baffles in those, so they just put another tub in for a fuge or what ever and let it over flow. So that is not a bad idea.

    Your skimmer section... regardless what you do, you have to baffle your skimmer section to set water level. Every single skimmer out there you want needs a constant water level for consistent performance. The best water level is 10"... it is deep enough for anything out there, and if you want shallow, then you just put your skimmer on a stand. Water overflows the first baffle, and it is constant.

    I do not know what skimmer you have, but I do not understand why it is out of the water. If that is how it is supposed to be, fine. But that is head pressure to overcome for the pump and it will not put out as much. But build your sump for the skimmer you want later.

    ATO.... your ATO HAS to go in the return section. When you baffle things correctly, this is the place that water loss will show. Everything returns to there, and any evaporation will be seen there.

    Fuge.... so, where to put it. IDEALLY, in a baffled sump, you want your return in the middle. But I understand you want your external pump at the end. Lots of folks put everything in line... I do not care for that as you can't control flow through the fuge... all flow that moves through the sump moves through the fuge. And there are other reasons... but more than likely, it does not matter if fuge before or after skimmer section.

    WHAT YOU NEED TO DO... if you want the sump with skimmer then return at the end, either use the 10g tank like you originally wanted. Put it on a little stand or set it on the bottom in the return section and let water flow around it. Even if your return section is 10", that still puts a bit of water level above the return section pressing down on a pane of glass on the bottom of the 55g. Not exactly how tanks are designed to carry load.

    What you can do is baffle off a fuge on the side. Use the 55g, make your skimmer section really long... put the bubble trap at the other end say, baffle off a fug on the side and supply it like you wanted or split your drain. Let the fuge overflow into the skimmer part, or make the end farthest from the skimmer/closest to the bubble trap a little shorter and it will over flow there. Either way, water from the skimmer section will flow along side it, everything goes through a bubble trap, and you have a return section free and clear to put heaters and ATO.

    There would be nothing wrong putting the fuge in the return section either really. It does not produce micro bubbles, so it does not need a bubble traps. Do the same thing, just there, and let it over flow.

    This way you set the hight of the skimmer section you want. You set the hight of the fuge level you want. Nothing needs any supporting, and you have a return section with an external pump at the end . You have plenty of room with a 55g do do everything you want and have all the room for equipment you need. Redo the sump, and you will be happy long term.
     
  5. RoloSaez

    RoloSaez Millepora

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    The Skimmer is a Berlin Turbo bought back in 2001 it's old. I need to redo the plumbing on it. And get it back in the water or even replace it with a newer one haven't decided yet. Sometimes out of the norm is ok. Look at Melevsreef.com Sometimes you have to do something just a little out of the norm as long as it works.

    Since my fuge and sump are ideally a separate entity I can control the flow in the fuge. I have a valve on the one feeding the fugue. The regular original drain however is still full throttle. I can and will definitely add support to the front side of the fuge and move the drain of the fuge forward or do something to make it more fluent. the water level should be equalized and only 6 gallons of water will really be extra. I think you are really over thinking this weight in the fuge thing. I drew up what changes were made so you can get a clearer view because I don't think it's as visible in the video or picture.

    The first picture is how I plan on setting up the ATO, The second one shows how my plans changed as I was putting this together, and the third is just a top view to give you a better idea of the existing supports.

    Lastly, the tank I glued that bottom piece back on and was worried about the chips on the corners. I threw the hole thing in a large garbage can and hit it with a three pound hammer about seven to eight times and it didn't even crack. I had to score it with the glass cutter for it to even break so it would fit in the trash can.

    If you take an egg and put it in the palm of your hand one way and squeeze it will break shift it and try again and it won't brake. Sometime we think of just the normal stuff and over think a few others.

    I will work on the drain from the fuge back to the skimmer side and add supports to the front of the fuge just for precaution. I think the rest will be fine. If not I will do as you said and build a fuge down the side of the 55g and a return on the other half as suggested. Thanks for your input and I hope these pictures help you see what i have done with this model sump.
     

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  6. RoloSaez

    RoloSaez Millepora

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    Fixed the skimmer and got it in there. Figured out how to fix the drain from the fuge with a filter sponge and egg crate plastic. Remember the algae will be free floating in the fuge and the DSB will be equalized. check this out you can do amazing things with water.
     
  7. Powerman

    Powerman Giant Squid

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    I don't think it matter getting the fuge back to the skimmer side. The water will just run down the pane and not make any bubbles. Mine overflowed about 6 inches no problem. That's fine if you want to.

    The pics are how I thought it was. Over time we want to do things or change things. With the fuge siliconed in like that, you can't get into the return side and clean it out under the fuge. Obviously, there may be more room to get in than is represented in the drawing. Be sure to leave enough room to be able to get under your fuge.... who knows, maybe you have to change out the bulkhead fitting at some point???? What happens if it leaks? And if you leave room... then you will have room for sensors of the ATO in the return section.

    Your skimmer is fine. It is just odd seeing one out of water if it isn't an external. Plenty of very good affordable needle wheel skimmers out there that do an awesome job. It is probably time for an upgrade... but you will have plenty of room. But I have to say it again, setting the level in the skimmer section is the best thing. If you want it deeper, then just put in a taller baffle. But a constant water level is a good thing. And unless you have a Tunze osmolator, ATO are not the best way to keep a constant level.

    I really hope I am not coming across as being too critical. You have put some good thought into it, and a sump is by far the best way to go. Just trying to help out.
     
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  9. RoloSaez

    RoloSaez Millepora

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    A lot of great info here and much to think about. I take constructive criticism very well. I like the idea of making the fuge on one side of the tank so that I can get to the bulkhead. I might definitely do that in the near future. Sometimes in your mind you see it working differently and then when you get it going it doesn't work as you first envisioned it. and it will not be difficult to change at all. I just really wanted the majority of it to be a fuge. heaters not really necessary here in FL. So all I need in the skimmer side is the phosban reactor and skimmer.
     

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    Last edited: Jul 31, 2013
  10. Zgetman

    Zgetman Ritteri Anemone

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    So you completely took the 10g tank out now?
     
  11. RoloSaez

    RoloSaez Millepora

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    yes I did. When I actually started cutting the glass and putting it all together I build a tank within a tank. The return runs under the refugium built in. I started out with a plan on paper and when I started building it it the plans changed. Powerman's concern is that the glass pane supports will stress out the bottom pane of the over all aquarium and fail in the long run due to the weight it's supporting and also not being able to get to the bulkhead if necessary, or the ability to to clean under the refugium due to access. Which got me thinking that I can make that change easy enough and still have a large portion of the tank a fuge. as originally planned. I was going to use the ten gallon and just tried something different. not sure how I will proceed I guess. I'll ponder the whole thing and then decide. I guess.
     
  12. Zgetman

    Zgetman Ritteri Anemone

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    What are all the changes you are making? I am curious of your water level in the different secitons.