DIY ick medicine

Nope! In the concentration range I use , there is no detectable effect on pH.

Thanks for feedback and support. I've performed this 3 times now. There are no side effects observable. I was paying special attention to my snails and hermit crabs. I've got purple button polyp. So I can't extrapolate the effect of this treatment for other corals. However, this one was doing very well! I've adopted this procedure and now it is the 1st step of my QT treatment:

step 1 - 7 days in QT tank with DIY ICK medicine applied every 2 days.
step 2 - RO/DI water dips every 24h for 30-60s, depending on stress level.

Therapy is complemented by feeding with: garlic extract/vit. C/multivitamin complex soaked food. Application of additional ozonizer can speed up the therapy (the machanism of medications action involves oxidation in water, to create active form of medicine).

Moreover,
I've performed so called "adsorption assay". After complete 7-day treatment , I've placed 500g of highly active adsorption medium (EHFIAKTIVE, by EHEIM, Germany) in my external filter. Water flow in my additional unit is 650 gph (with filter media) so approx. 8.5x my tank / h. I've been taking water sample every 4h from the treated tank and performing measurements in the lab: 1D proton NMR spectroscopy measurements. According to my measurements the medication is adsorbed to the undetectable level (0.01 ppm) in 16h. So, the conclusion is: it can be effectively removed from the display tank, using standard aquaristic equipment.

Enjoy!

 

Another question about the mix, would it be safe to use any of these ?Dimethoxyethane - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia it list dimethyl glycol as a A.K.A

 

In principle yes. BUT ONE WOULD HAVE TO DILUTE IT MORE AND FILTER THE SOLUTION!

Otherwise it will have very funny aromatic smell... Please be careful when handling this. This compounds may be explosive when dried!

 

I have to totaly disagree with this statement as it is just perpetuating yet another myth about this parasite. Being that our tropical reef fish have evolved for life in the low 80's, so have the parasites that feed upon them. By turning up the heat to 81, you are only recreating the natural environment that both fish and parasite find ideal. This parasite, can easily kill a fish also. The usual first indications of an infestation is the fish gilling rapidly. This is because the gills are most easily attacked and attached to since their membranes are very thin to allow the transfer of oxygen. If infested heavily, the fishes gills can easily become so damaged as to cause asphyxiation, if that doesn't get the fish, then secondary bacterial/fungal infections could as you mentioned.

Chuck

 

Since I had to make a first post before links are allowed, I can now include this:

Marine Ich

and, just in case: Recommended water temperatures

Chuck

 

Thanks! Very good reference!

 

It's deja vu all over again. Regardless of whether or not you agree, this method has always worked for me in treating ich. I truly hope that you don't dispute everything I say here like you did on the About and Fishy Frolics forums. You do things your way and I'll do them mine. My methods are based on experience, not book learning, and they have never done me wrong in over 30 years. I'm not going to change my methods or stop sharing them with others simply because you don't agree.

 

I take your side tangster. I'm also keeping elevated temp. So in other words trying to fight with ich in multiple ways, and simultaneously keep the stress level as low as possible!

 

The last couple days I,ve been using Malachite Green with elevated water temps,plus GarlicExtreme and Zoe as a food soak.

Finding Dimethyl glycol so far isn,t going too easy, but that mix will be the next shot at it.

Then comes the, empty the tank scenario and QT the fish..after the holidays

 

Yup... Sounds reasonable...! Listen! If you can't find it search for exodin by Aqua Medic (Germany). It is basically the same composition! The nicest thing is you can use it in your display tank!

Good luck!