DIY BeanAnimal Overflow and Sump Build ! PICTURES!

NM I see you did. I was going to say be sure to get a threaded gate valve so you can reuse it if you mess up.... but too late.

 

for the skimmer or for the overflow? If for the overflow you can see in the pictures on the last few pages that i got a huge spears gate valve on there

 

lol its okay no worries so far so good, i went with threaded, it was all they had and good thing too because i would have gone with slip..i may consider changing for a shorter 90 into the sump

do you know anything about putting a valve on the skimmer?

 

Wow, I wasn't even paying attention. Didn't even notice the 3 pages. Sorry I'm late to the party.

As you know gates are not readily available... always get a threaded valve so it can be reused. And not a union valve cause those can be removed but not reused without buying more parts.

 

I know plenty of folks do it. Ball valves and gate are good for 100% flow when open. Neither are technically supposed to be throttled, but of course you can do what you want.

PVC gates are different from true metal gates and can be throttled. PVC gates are much better at fine throttle control over a ball valve... of course there are better valves for throttling, but for our uses they do just fine.

People like them on skimmers simply for better fine tuning. If yours is running how you like, then a gate will not really do much for you.. if you can't get it where you like... a gate is your fix.

 

Thank a lot , the thing is i havent run the skimmer yet but i was told that the euro reef riser tube makes a lot of noise and is kinda nnoying to mess with, could be wrong, so i was thing of a way to lower the water outlet closer to the sump water level and the location of the outlet seems like it will splay out of my sump, take a look


any ideas?

 

That is not the route you want to take. you will need to put a sponge in or some sort of water break to quiet the noise. I did not like it either on my skimmers... but water level in the skimmer should be set for best operation.

 

so wait im a little confused, a gate valve mod would be a bad idea?

i was thinking adding a 1.5" x 1" T to the existing elbow.. the top will run up to a 1.5" pipe as a vent and then on the 1" side i will run a 1" gate valve or ball valve..do you think a 3/4 will be too much reatriction ?

 

Well what ever you have now is what you want to use. The valve is the restriction, you do not want the pipe to be the restriction. Gates are much better for flow control. Seems some folks have a hard time with their skimmer not being where they want it. Ball valves are a bad choice because flow is not linear at all with opening.. so it is tough to get to the sweet spot... either level is too high or too low. Gates make adjustment much less aggravating.

But you level should be where it should be. Say your out flow is 2" above water line and you do not want the sound of the water falling... well for one your out put should not be that high or your sump level should not be that low. Most makers put their outputs pretty low.... but assuming everything is right.... you do not wan tot drop your skimmer level 2" just to make that go away. Your skimmer would be working far from optimal... no skimate in the cup, low water through put ect.

 

Thanks for all the information, i think im going to run it like you said as it see how i feel about it or i have the gate vavle mod ready to put on with a 1" gate valve see how that works

i have some update pictures that i need to post my sump is done all my return lines are done and everything looks great need to test it with water first


so i was thinking should i be looking into reactors? GFO or i want a calcium reactor but damn they are expensive, i have a needle valve, guages and CO2 tank left from my planted tank so all i need is the chamber

i guess ill buy things as i go