coil denitrator yes again

Saw the thread guys...I've got two CDs that are working great.  [smiley=2thumbsup.gif]Both have the removable top (a gasket/flange set up that is on this board somewhere) in case of clogging I can find the problem, and inline filters which I check periodically. One has 100' of 1/4" drip line tubing the other around 80' of 1/4" ID tubing I got from USPlastics because I was ordering other stuff anyway. The inline filters were an after thought but because of the small diameter of the tubing I thought it was a good idea.

I made the first one with some 4" x 24" acrylic tubing that I got for $8 the other is made with the 4" x 24" ABS black tubing and cost around $4 for the tube. If you check the thread that BL posted there are pictures of BLs and mine, they are pretty much the same.

Make sure you check the output valve every once and a while as they do tend to get clogged up with salt and calcium.

I am using a RIO 600 on the FW black CD and a MJ 606 on the acrylic one on my reef tank. I like the MJ 606 better than the RIO. It is definitely quieter. Originally i was running the CD off my skimmer pump but switched because I wanted to be able to turn one off without turning off the other. ;D

Drew

 

thanks i made mine 20" tall with about 65' 1/4 hope its enouth line just glued it together hope it dont leak plus i have a good idea for a cheep and very simple to make (modify)pre filter you know those small air pump check valves with some sort of cotten or so inside well i drilled the holes a little bigger and i will use this as a pre filter just checked the water flow and its great will let you know how it works when its all setup and turned on i have one question dx7fd2 my nitrates are already low i'm just doing this to prolong water changes and i always like addind stuff to my reef tankwill it work with low nitrates should i wait longer for a water change karma for you dx7fd2 & birdlady

 

woowoodengy...sure you can start it running..it does take a while for the bacteria you want to start forming in the unit anyway. I left mine running for about 3 months at about 60-80 drips a minute and then started dialing it up to what is now about 180 drips a minute. At that rate it takes about a week or so to run through 100 gallons so it is a slow but very steady process. Your filter idea will work fine, just make sure to check the floss every couple of weeks so that it does not stop the water flow. If the CD stops moving water it gets very nasty in just a couple of days so keep your eye on it. I check to make sure mine is dripping every day. ;D

Drew

 

i check my tank every day to so thats not a problem the other thing is did you check your nitrites and ammonia at first i don't have a trickle filter to dump my return in to i'm just going back into the sump hope thats ok plus how about a oxygenation chamber do you use it is it necessary thank for all your advise so far oh do i still do my regular water changes??? ;D

 

I actually don't check the nitrates and ammonia very often, only when I suspect there is something wrong. ;D

I've been dumping the cd output right near where the overflow dumps into the sump so the drip from the cd gets put right into the turbulence coming out of the display tank, otherwise it is a good idea to use some sort of oxygenation chamber. I saw something about that online somewhere and a plan for the chamber. Shouldn't be too hard to use an airstone and pump and put some sort of receptacle in the sump to oxygenize the cd output. That would ensure that there was very little gas going into to the water column created by the breakdown of the nitrates. The gas will rise just as it does from the DSB (we hope). [smiley=2thumbsup.gif]

There is some controversy about stirring up DSBs because of the possibility of hitting a pocket of gas and therby releasing it into the water column.

I'm on of the wackos that uses a plenum with a CPW(controlled plenum wasting) array built into it that I designed myself. It works for me, but I would never say it is "THE" way to set up the substrate. There is a thread in the sand forum here at 3reef about CPW and a lot of discussion on design and such. Or you can hit my site for the page on my tank. The site is not complete but there is some pictures there and other info.

http://www.podzilla.us/aquascapeDS/tank/tank.html

the cpw page is in a link on this page along with some other stuff.

 

ok it has been 4 days since i turned on my cd and i know that it takes 4-6 weeks to start to work but i am impationt so i decided to check my nitrates from the cd output and wow wow wow they read zero and my tank reads 10 how could this be ? so quick? ;D ;D ;D my guess is that its because i used the balls out of my sump i also checked my nitrites from the cd and also 0 this is amazing i wonder how long it will start to take affect on the tank i have it at 60 drops a min i just cant belive my eyes thanks guys. bird lady you have to biuld another one of these if you want my plan just let me know i sat and though long and hard to get quick cheep and reliable results and i got very good results i will let you know the fittingsi used and i garanteee no leaks never ever let me know

 

Sounds like the media from your sump had the bacteria you need. Good idea!!! [smiley=2thumbsup.gif] Your CD is good to go. Once the tank level reaches 0 'trates go ahead and crank up the CD to somewhere arond 120-140. This should minimize any build up of gas in the water in the CD.

Drew

 

Hey there Woowoodengy,

Yeah, let me know what you used etc...you can post it here or PM to me! Thanks!

;D