Byropsis sp. problem

Water looks to be lacking in Carbonates and calcium what are these levels ran it on average also magnesium what do you keep that running and lamps light looks awful cool in K to me . But the water sure looks acidic and low on Carbonates, Skimmer what type and hos is it working as for amount of skimmate being removed ? I think if you correct the lamps to a hotter K and kick the Low DKH up and wet skim the heck out of the tank all that green you have will fade away and how old is this system ? You may have posted these ? But I did not read the entire string .

Oh you might want to also start stirring up that top layer of crushed coral and shells as that will hold nutrients to feed you algae Its not a good idea to use bottom media that course .

 

Thanks tangster.
I normally skim 24/7 and it doesn't remove much until I clean the glass with an algae scrubber, then it starts filling up. I did a huge cleaning yesterday and it's about half full today of wet skimmate (turned it "up" yesterday during cleaning to get as much out as possible). The system is about 3 weeks old, and fully cycled in about 12 days. I had the standard Diatom blooms already until the silicate was all gone.
Light information can be found in my first post. I agree with you about the acidic looking water. Which makes me want to test it.

Here's some findings, pretty much what I thought it would be:
RO water PH: <7.4
Saltwater DT PH: 7.8
ph of mixed saltwater for WC: 8.1-8.2 (mixed yesterday sitting on porch)
TAp water PH: >8.8 (chlorine I'm sure)

I need to get an alk test kit to see how that is fairing, since I don't have one right now, just calcium (been acquiring tests as budget permits).

I poked around on the forums for a bit and I think that this dropping PH may have alot to do with the townhouse we live in, and the CO2 that's in the air here. I may need to start doing some "air changes" as well as water changes. Anyone else in FL have this or a similar problem?
I also think I'll start adding some buffer to the topoff water to curb these dropping pH's.

Combined with the Tech M that should be here Monday, I should have this Algae problem in the bag, famous last words if I've ever typed them. I'll update this thread in a week or two with results/pleas of mercy.

 

Ohhh you have the cart in front of the horse old partner..
Tank is 3 weeks old and fully cycled ?? No way is that tank cycled , I myself have seen so many newer guys by newer I mean since mid 80's with the advent of L/R and sand or some magic enzyme or freeze dried bugs assume their tanks are cycled .. Its far from that . It Takes about 2 yrs to fully cycle and allow the tank to mature past all the little algae issues .

Now you mentioned Ph is ?? Look don't waste any time dealing with Ph if you get the DKH or carbonates to proper levels Ph will have to be there Ph is just a measurement that shows you if there ate ample carbonates available to off set the acids and you my fried are lacking in carbonates I can see it .. Get the water buffered up to 12 DKH Calcium to 450 and Magnesium to 1500 ppm .

Run only actinic lamps for a month and watch that slime algae fade away if Ph is reading low after the water is properly buffered ? that would depend on time of day test is ran and is the house closed up tight for winter ? or any source like a furnace or water heater near by ? And if you are wasting time testing Ph with a liquid test kits then you will never get a good Reading my Ph swings from 8.2 to 7.9 or 8.0 in the early morn even with a refugium on Reverse Photo period If I cut that fuge light light off my Ph would and does hit 7.8 to 7.9 . PH mean not much of anything at all I keep my DKH at about 13 via a carbonate/calcium reactor .

Simply get a Calcium/DKH and Magnesium test kits and for get about the Ph. Much ado about nothing really .. And you will see that algae fade ..