ATO problem

My RODI system has a pressure tank and I run about 40' of 1/4" tubing to get to my fish room. There I have a float valve in my sump and also in my RODI storage tank. I have run this type of ATO since 1998 without problems. Dump the fancy ATO's and go with the simplistic approach. Finally, Todd says you need the reservoir above the tank, but that isn't necessarily so. Another reefer uses an aqualifter pump rated at 3.5 gal per hour to move his water from the reservoir to the float valve. Works very well and cost about $12.00.

 

Very **important** to put your ATO reservoir water level lower than your sump water level unless you are using peristaltic pump, brs 50ml is my prefer choice, which does not allow water to siphon back and forth to your ATO reservoir or sump unexpectedly.

 

Please explain further, If the reservoir is the highest, then makeup water can siphon into the tank if not checked. The reverse is true if the reservoir is lower than the tank. I don't understand you point.

 

I don't know what else to explain. The ATO senses the water level is low so it turns on the pump to pump water to the sump. When the water level is hi enough, it turns off the pump. If the water level in the ATO reservoir is higher than the sump, gravity will continue pulling water to the sump until the siphon breaks.
I forgot 1 thing, the hose should not submerge into the sump water or else!

 

Windy, thanks, but if the system uses gravity like mine does- the resevoir HAS to be higher- that's the power that lets the RO/DI water in when the float is down/valve opens slightly.
You obviously use 'pressure' for this? Where does your pressure tank come from- i.e.- how is it designed, how does that work, and finally, how to you re=pressureize it?


Advising a Toms Aqualifter isn't really considered a great advice since they are notoriusly undependable, clog easily, etc.

Again, my ATO system uses NO 'pressure' (except gravity), no electircity, no pumps, no sensors, nadda
I also have a nice/sturdy/reliable float valve in my sump and one in my RO/DI resevoir.
Do you have to refill your resevoir? I don't- comes from my RO that goes to a 3g tnak for my drinking water tap and ice maker, and then thru the DI resin and on to the sump area to the resevoir- worked flawless for over 4 years. I've only been reefing 5.
And I do agree with you, simpler is WAY better- flawless

And others advice about which should be higher, which pumps to use, blah, blah, blah

I designed my flawless, no pump, no sensor, no electicity system SOLELY because I had read about so many disaster from the various store bought models.
Relying on a sensor or pump, etc, is a recipe for loss of livestock, and often wet floors too!

What ever you decide, plan it well, and good luck.
Remember- gravity CAN be your friend, use it properly grasshopper

 

Todd,
where did you get the failure data on the aqualifters?

 

I have never used one but here are some reviews from MD.
http://www.marinedepot.com/Tom_Aqua...flow_Boxes-Tom_Aquatics-OE1137-FIOFOA-vi.html
While kiss is always the best method,keeping the ato higher then your sump is not always an option. I have never used an ATO because I don't feel the risk is worth the reward but if I did I would probably use the Todd method. However float valves while very reliable can fail as well.

 

I've got this system on a couple of tanks, and this is exactly it. Because the sensors are placed close together and triggered by temperature, it can take a minute for it to shut off. I had the same problem until I slowed my ATO pump by running it through a kalkwasser reactor.

 

LOL this is funny.

I completely forgot about the gravity pull or pressurized ATO systems. When I read the question, my mind just focused on the question and the issues related to that type of ATO systems.

Anyway, I am with MikeRice on the issue. I think he has identified the issue for the OP question.

 

I went to your site and all I could find were 5 star reviews. So what is so unreliable about the AquaLifter?????