Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Tap Water Filter??

Thanks for the info and the good sites guys I am now seriously thinking about getting an ro/di unit instead....one good thing is i dident lose a whole lot of money on that tap water filter i got, if i would of reserched water treatment before making my impulse buy i would already be half way to getting an ro unit though...lol. Impulse buys always get me though, i need to suppress the urge!!!!

 

You really haven't waisted anything on the filter as it can be rigged as a final stage on an RO/DI. They are good units and I have given thought in the past of using the refill for my DI when it needs replacing. As far as the amount you get in the AP refill and the quality of water it puts out one would have an awsome RO/DI unit. As long as it goes after the RO unit it will last much longer.
Just let it dry out if you have used it and save the beads as your DI refill. You could probably conect it to the RO thereby keeping it in the AQ unit.

 

We advise against horizontal DI housings - a fundamental configuration flaw in DI systems.

Russ @ BFS

 

Ro Di

I dont know if I will buy one of these right off the bat (I will probobly buy everything else I need first) I have an Ro filter at my house, but i am not too sure if it is a di unit. Is it really important to have a di with it as well or can I get away with just the ro? Also, anyone know of a good ro di unit that just plugs into a hose?

Although for now I will probobly just buy bottled water from my water and ice store. Is there anything i should know before I buy bottled water as well?

 

Is that because if you don't have a pump, you are only utilizing the resins at the bottom or is it because you want gravity to pull the water through all of the resins?

 

I believe that is the case. As Tangster likes to say "gravity sucks" Water does not go uphill unless you put a pump on it.

 

I would not use bottled water. It is usually filtered using an r.o. unit then essential minerals are added back into it.

 

We use a bottom up flow in our systems.

Horizontal DI housings are a design intended to minimize the original cost of the system - you should be prepared for the tradeoffs. Horizontal DI units typically contain 8 oz. to 16 oz. of resin. Typical vertical DI cartridges contain 20 oz of resin. Obviously the more resin contained in the housing the longer it will last and the better treatment it will provide.

Some horizontal DI housings are not refillable - you'll therefore have to pay for a new housing every time you need to replace the DI resin. The cost of repeatedly replacing the horizontal housing will far outweigh any money saved up-front in purchasing the unit.

Perhaps most importantly, horizontal DI housings are a less than ideal arrangement for water treatment. DI resin beads shrink through normal use over their life span. You'll note that a cartridge that was full when new can sometimes have a ¼ inch of empty space in it when fully expended. When DI resin settles in a horizontal housing, it leaves a pathway (of least resistance) along the top of the housing where water can flow while coming into minimal contact with the DI resin.

You’ll note that the output from the DI housing is at the center of the end of the housing. Depending upon how your system is configured, RO water may enter the DI housing in port, fill up the housing until the water level reaches the out port (i.e., fill up the bottom half of housing), and then exit the DI housing. Your RO water has been in contact only with half the resin in the housing.

Russ @ BFS