Discussion in 'Water Chemistry' started by lunatik_69, Mar 3, 2008.
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Sorry for my stupid post! I thought we were talking about a new RO/DI unit!
Great thread... motivated me to test all my water, which is great to know! Glad I had my Hagen kickin around.
I left all the water out for about 6 hours to reach room temp, so the tests would all be fairly accurate benchmarking against one another.
Weapon of Choice:
RO Water: belongs to me, don't have "DI" yet.
RO/DI Water: a buddy at work set one up in our office for his office aquarium... haha, works well for me 8)
the city water is 250 tds and after the modified RO-MAN 7 stages i have 0 a nice real zero :-D
when it grow over 2 i replace the DI resins and it it raise over 5 i change the membrane
usually (at least here..) if you see a number in the TDS it will be Silicates.. so algae... so when i see them i change something soon.. or i will have to add some rowa in the sump..
ok guys, i got the tds meter from ebay, it came just 3 days after the payment, the unit works really great, got my first measurment, ro 150, di came out to be 3 so i dont know is my ro having problem however my di corrected it.
150 is alot, try letting it run for a few mins then test it again.
is ro before or after the membrane?
R/O is a multi stage process of filtering water. The membrane is the "heart" of the system, so to speak.
so i need to test after the membrane? i tested it before it goes in
Im not sure what your Q is, but whenI test my R/O, I test it before it goes into the system and when it comes out. I dont test anywhere inbetween.
After the membrane and before the DI resin is the RO Number.
Separate names with a comma.