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Old 04-06-2008, 07:01 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default controlling bristleworms+aiptaisa

I've had an outbreak of aiptasia and bristleworms in my 40 gallon tank. Some of the aiptasia have been killed with Joes Juice, which I suspect is limewater in a really small and expensive container. There are still many aiptasia I can't reach, and there are bristleworms everywhere.

I want to put the least effort into removing pests, and I've decided that getting predators for the bristleworms/aiptasia would be the best solution.

Here are the canidates:

bristleworm control:
coral banded shrimp
Pseudochromis/Dottyback

aiptasia control:
peppermint shrimp
copperband butterfly

Right now, my tank has 2 blue legged hermits and 12 snails. I would like to avoid any conflicts with them and future tank inhabitants, namely clownfish and mandarinfish.

Which creatures should I pick to get rid of the pests without causing present or future wars? I've heard that peppermints and CBS will not get along, but would the same apply for the other fish I listed?
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Old 04-06-2008, 07:09 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I have a coral banded shrimp and he could care less about bristle worms. I tried to hand feed one to him tonight with some chopsticks and he ran away from it. It was practically crawling on him and he didn't care. I think it may be a luck of the draw thing.

I got a six line wrasse to control the bristle worms. He didn't eat a ton, but they always hid from him. During the day I had no issues. I don't mind having bristle worms in the tank. They are part of the natural design. Some people frown on a wrasse in a reef tank, but my population is fine.

Look to cut back on the feeding and the worm population should die down.


Good Luck


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Too many bristleworms
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Old 04-06-2008, 07:12 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Old 04-06-2008, 07:13 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I'm worried that I'll get one that's 5+ inches long. That is not something I want to deal with.

As for feeding, I buy a lox bagel every friday for my sub, and give a small piece of nova lox to the tank. Invariably, the bristleworms take all of it away from the hermits and copepods.
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Old 04-06-2008, 07:18 PM   #5 (permalink)
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in regards to the copperband butterfly, first, butterfly fish tend to be more for the advanced hobbyist. They are very picky eaters at first, this one in particular may also grow to large for you aquarium, the minimum tank size being about 50 gal at least. They also don't ship well and need to be quarantined so as not to spread disease. It will also tend to eat and pick at any invertebrates in the tank, so it may eat the shrimp it you choose to put them in or the crabs and snails already there.
The banded shrimp should be good as long as you don't add another one.
The others im not quite sure, hope this helps
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Old 04-06-2008, 09:46 PM   #6 (permalink)
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(about.com)

Bad Bristle Room Control:



Ways to Prevent and Remove Infestations



Remove them by hand using tweezers or a net when you see them.

Buy a bristleworm trap, or make your own.
Use a baited nylon stocking.

Introduce a natural predator of these worms into the aquarium, such as a Dottyback, Wrasse of the Halichoeres family, Bird Wrasse (Gomphosus varius), Maori Wrasse (Cheilinus oxycephalus), Sunset Wrasse (Thalassoma lutescens), Coral Banded Shrimp (Stenopus hispidus) or Arrow Crab (Stenorhynchus setrcornis).





Severe Infestation Solution


Although this problem is not likely to occur if the worms are removed when found, if your aquarium is overwhelmed by a severe bad type, or even a beneficial type bristleworms infestation, such as with those of the Eurythoe genus, you can quickly reduce the population by cleaning up the substrate and rocks. Here is what you can do.

Only remove small portions of the aquarium substrate at a time and either:
Spread it out on a plastic sheet, then sieve through the media by hand and pick the worms out using tweezers.

Place the substrate in a plastic container partially filled with saltwater, and stir it around. The worms should come up from the media each time this is done and be in the water portion of the container where they can be scooped out. A fine meshed fish net works well for this.

Remove the rocks one at a time and follow the rock cleaning procedure outlined under the "Preventative Measures" section above.


Tip: It is advised to always wear a pair of gloves of some kind when dealing with Fireworms to avoid coming into contact with their stinging bristles.

Tip: Whenever working with live substrate media and rocks in the open air, it is best to keep it moist, which can be done by using a spray bottle filled with saltwater to dampen it.






(get a sixline to take care of little ones)


Good Luck!


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Last edited by omard; 04-07-2008 at 06:19 AM.
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Old 04-06-2008, 10:03 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by julian solos View Post
I've had an outbreak of aiptasia and bristleworms in my 40 gallon tank. Some of the aiptasia have been killed with Joes Juice, which I suspect is limewater in a really small and expensive container. There are still many aiptasia I can't reach, and there are bristleworms everywhere.

I want to put the least effort into removing pests, and I've decided that getting predators for the bristleworms/aiptasia would be the best solution.

Here are the canidates:

bristleworm control:
coral banded shrimp
Pseudochromis/Dottyback

aiptasia control:
peppermint shrimp
copperband butterfly

Right now, my tank has 2 blue legged hermits and 12 snails. I would like to avoid any conflicts with them and future tank inhabitants, namely clownfish and mandarinfish.

Which creatures should I pick to get rid of the pests without causing present or future wars? I've heard that peppermints and CBS will not get along, but would the same apply for the other fish I listed?
Your best saloution to start with' is lower your feeding ' and when feeding do it in small amounts.. make sure the fish get it'.. and it does'int settle in the tank.
I suspect your phosphates are up as well or you have problems with it .

you can use kalkwasser , spoon full in a small cup stir it up.. use a pipeette to squirt this high dose into the "mouth" of the aptasia .
and buy ya some bristle worm traps... you can catch them , the trick to it
is , you'll never catch them all.. but you can keep them in check by proper feeding ' and traps to catch them ( if your tank seems to be infested )

which if the aptaisa is over running your tank . thats most likely what your doing, they eat too... and their catching all that "food and waste" from the fish...

Last edited by wildreef; 04-06-2008 at 10:18 PM.
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Old 04-06-2008, 10:08 PM   #8 (permalink)
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peppermints took care of my massive aiptaisa infestation within a week or so, but make sure there the Lysmata wurdemanni instead of the Lysmata Calif.... spelling
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Old 04-06-2008, 10:48 PM   #9 (permalink)
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(FYI)

Home Bristle Worm Traps and how to Use them
Albert J. Thiel




Various type of home made models can be made. The difference has mostly to do with their size. You may want to start off with a small model and if that does not seem to work, upgrade to a larger one. Since you will be using very inexpensive materials (actually mostly food jars) the cost of changing is just about zero.

Another manner in which to change and see if you can trap the animals you want out of the aquarium, is to change the food stuff you place inside the container that is used as the trap. That often is better than making an new trap. Sometimes the type of food has a great deal to do with whether or not worms and other animals will enter the trap you set up.

If you have observed your aquarium at night, which you should have done, and know the approximate location (hiding space) of the worm(s), that is where you should place the trap, or at least as close to that area as you can. If there are different areas, you would want to move the trap around as you keep catching worms.

Note that besides bristle worms you may have noticed that your tank contains a Mantis Shrimp. The method used to catch it is the same as the one described for the worms. The only difference may be that you need to enlarge the holes in the container you use as a trap, to match the size of the shrimp you need to catch.

To make the trap, use a small plastic food container that has a lid. The container should be opaque not transparent. You do not want the animal you want to catch to be able to see the food inside. You want it to have to crawl to the top of the container and then in the container to get to the food. The smell of the food is what should attract it and make it do so. When the right kind of food is used, the animal will.



What to put in the Trap for best Results?

The choice of foods I recommend you place in the traps are:


Shrimp meat (cooked)
Scallop meat (raw)
Fish roe (raw)
Mussel meat (raw)
Clam meat (raw)
Pieces of edible fish such as fish for human consumption (raw)
All these items are bought at a fish market, not at a pet store
You can, of course, place several kinds of food in the container (trap).
I do not favor brine shrimp. They do not seem to attract the worms and shrimp or other animals you want to get out of the tank.

Frozen fish foods, bought at pet stores, do not seem to produce too good results either. What I am referring to is the commercially available frozen foods that you use to feed your fish.

Stick with the ones listed above and your chances for success will be greatly enhanced. All fish markets carry that kind of food stuff. Fish roe may be a little harder to get but you can order it and ask the owner to keep it for you rather than throw it away, which is what they often do.

The size of the pieces of food that you place inside the trap need to be "small" but not minuscule. Too large pieces of food do not produce the result you and I are looking for. You can cut the fish food you use up (whichever of the above you use) with a knife, or put it in a blender and chop it up. Do not make the pieces too small either (no mush please). When using a blender, set it so the breaking up does not go as far as making a paste of the food.

When using a blender, a milky watery solution usually develops at the same time. Do not use it. It is laden with phosphates and will pollute your aquarium's water. You will then have to spend money to clean up the water before green filamentous and/or slimy algae start growing. Don't add pollutants to the tank that you later need to spend money on removing. You can avoid doing so by not adding the liquid.

Place a small amount of food in the container and make sure it remains at the bottom. By small I mean pea size to two pea size maximum. Do not put more and if you do not catch bristle worms in the first 48 hours replace the food with fresh one. If you do not, the food will start to decay and pollute the water. As a matter of rule, the food should be changed every 48 hours at least. Changing it more frequently is fine of course.

How to fabricate the trap:

Use a kitchen type container or a used food container made out of plastic. Make sure you have lid for the container. The container needs to be opaque. I have outlined this before. After you have added the food to the trap, lower the container in the water and let it fill with water.

Place it in the area where you think the bristle worm or whatever else you need to trap resides or hides.

Before doing this though you need to prepare the trap:

In the lid make an X shaped cut with a razor blade.

The size of the X should be just smaller than the thickness of the worm, or Mantis shrimp, or whatever else you are trying to catch.

Gauge the thickness carefully as the size of the opening in the lid needs to be slightly smaller than the size of the animal you are trying to trap. This is probably the only difficult part in the whole process. Remember that worms can make themselves real thin.

Push the four pieces of plastic that are loose as a result of the X cut inwards, at about a 45 degree angle. You can do this with your fingers or a tool. They should remain in that position. This is important (see below).
This allows the animal you want to trap to get in easily, but makes it hard for the animal to get back out. As it tries to get out, the pieces you pushed in will want to come back up as a result of the pressure the animal exerts on them. That is what makes it hard for the animal to get back out of the trap.
Now all you need is patience.

Remember that you may not catch anything the first day and that you need to persevere.

Keep at it and you will catch what you are after even if it takes longer than you expected. The key is not to give up.

If the container/trap you use is not working -meaning if you do not catch anything- change the food you put place in it and make the cut in the lid either smaller or larger, depending on what you are trying to catch. Sometimes the cut is too large and the worm or other animal gets back out, sometimes it is too small and the animal cannot get in. Adjust the size of the cut and eventually you will catch what you are after.


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Old 04-07-2008, 05:21 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Cut way back on feeding the tank.. Less waste food for them to eat then less pest to deal with.


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