How To: DIY Cabinet for 10 Gallon Tank

I recently built my own cabinet for my 10 gallon nano. I wanted something that was sleek and simple, but would fit all of the equipment I needed for a 10 gallon reef tank.

I was able to build the main cabinet for approximately $65. It is made f 1/2" birch plywood and 1x2 dimensional pine strips (actually 1 1/2" x 3/4"). It is glued and screwed together. Screw holes are pre-drilled and countersinked. For a bit more, you can make it look even more like furniture. Below are the plans to built it.



For this project you will need:

1) 4x8 sheet of 1/2" birch playwood

2) 1x2 dimensional pine - 6 foot lengths

3) Tape measure

4) Some type of saw. I used a Japanese pull saw as well as [will edit for name/types]

5) Tightbond III Ultimate Wood Glue (or other wood glue)

6) Three - four bar clamps...(I used Jorgensen 36" steel bar clamps). More clamps will make it easier.

7) Electrical drill - I used a 14V Hitachi

8 ) 8 x 1 M4.2 x 25.4 wood screws

9) One #8 Counter sinking bit

10) 30" piano hinge

11) Magnetic catch (to hold door closed)

12) Hole saw bit (diameter will depend on your size wire grommet)

13) Black or white wire grommet.







Click the image below to see full size with dimensions



This cabinet is fairly heavy and can easily be adapted to fit any size tank. I am not done with the finishing touches just yet, but will be sure to update with photos!

 

It should look like this when complete.





I also drilled a hole for my wire grommet, in order to help cleanup the mess of cords. I used both silicone and superglue gel to hold this in place.





I built this for an already-cycled tank, so I will be doing the next steps later. Here's how mine looks now. I haven't put the LEDs over the tank yet.





Full tank shot.

 

The only downside to plywood is that you will see the end grain. But this can be easily covered by using iron-on wood edging. A 3/4" x 25' roll will run you about $8. You will need half of this for the 10 gallon cabinet. A larger tank will obviously use more. Be sure to cut off the excess edging using an edge trimmer. This will also be about $8 depending where you get it. Sanding the plywood before this will help make the edges look nicer as well.







For the exterior, you can now finish the cabinet with your choice of stain/varnish, or paint it. I opted for a latex indoor/outdoor semi-gloss white primer/paint in one.

Before painting or staining, you will want to cover the screw holes to make them invisible. I used Minwax stainable wood filler. Make sure you get wood filler, and not putty. Putty will not ever actually dry and cannot be finished over without leaving grease stains.

I will be using a Purdy 9 x 1/4" nap roller head to paint my own cabinet. The thinner/smaller nap should leave a smooth/slick surface without much of any texture.

Between covering your screw holes and finishing (or painting) the cabinet, you may want to take a little while to sand smooth the edges of the wood, the wood filler, and also any imperfections on your surfaces.

 

reserved

 

reserved

 

Nice job; I like it. Looks like you still have some finishing work to do, but looks great already.

 

Thanks! Yes, I got as far as what's shown in my second post. I will need to wait until we get paid again to finish it. I will keep you updated.

 

Nice, love the wire management.

 

Thanks.

Unfortunately I still have 2 or 3 cords I have to fit through the hole that aren't in there yet. lol...I may have to use a dremel to widen the open space in the grommet cover.