Saltwater Ich

Ok folks, really really need your help.

We purchased a Squirrel fish at the LFS the other night. We love the little guy, but he has saltwater ich spots on his tail and pectoral fins.

I lost everyone of my fish about 6 weeks ago due to ich. Have since treated the tank with Ich Attach, did a water change and let it sit fish-less for 4 weeks.

I added a blue damsel 2 weeks ago as a test, and he/she is doing fine. Added the squirrel fish on Thursday night and already has Ich.

It's early, so looking for advice, this Ich problem is killing me (and my fish). Tank temperature is 81.

Water specs as of last night are:

KH: 13.4 (240ppm converted in German degrees)
PH: 8.3
No2: 0
No3: 0
Ph: 0 (BUT, I have lots of hair algae, so guessing if that wasn't there it would be much higher)

I have a RO/DI unit ordered and on the way. Once received, will slowly start doing water changes to replace the tap I used.

Back to the squirrel, should I just keep an eye on him and hope it goes away? Fresh water dip him? Medicate the tank (I REALLY hate to do this)? Other suggestions?

Thanks!

 

I seldom get involved with these anymore.. But I'll offer some advice anyways You say Ich spots on its tail ? what do they look like ? White salt grain size specks ? or smaller white specks ? Or are they clear or translucent like little bubbles ?

 

Tangster, I really appreciate it. I've read through tons of posts on about it, and trying to do everything right.

like salt, white no clear or translucent. I'd get a picture, but the little guy hides like crazy and is really fast...

thanks again!

 

Well That does sound like simple garden variety ich. If the fish is eating well and seems settled and getting adjusted then just let it be maybe if you want ? turn the heat up to low 80's maybe 82 tops this will help the fish slough the parasite off .. let me try to explain what ich is. Its like a cold to humans or fleas to dogs Its hit a stressed fish a temp swing a simple lighting period can trigger it if the fish is a little weak and run down its immune system can not produce the needed slime coat it needs for protection.

All systems contain that flagellate / spore a mine your his hers all have it in a system.. I have had tank running 5 yrs noting ever added and only snips of corals removed for clearance and after 4 or 5 yrs boom several fish break out with ich.. And any old long time hobbyist will tell you the same thing.. And I have had this to happen more then once in old established tanks.

Not if its like said eating and looking fine otherwise ? Just let it be every time they are attacked by the spore they build a little immunity to it. And the added heat will sped up the cycle of the flagellate and it will drop off to the bottom sooner and hatch and do its cycle But unless it finds a weakened fish it dies off and fall to the bottom and I think just goes into a I think a state of hibernation like many pest do. They just lay in wait until their next hatching and upwelling looking for a tweaked/stressed host.. Noe this is just my opinion and experience with the pest I'm sure many other have more facts ?and can offer more info.

But as I mentioned if its eating well and looking healthy it will slough it off

 

Tangster, can't say thanks enough. I appreciate the advice and explanation. I just feed the tank a little, he was eating good. So I'll just keep an eye on him.

Appreciate you taking the time to provide such a thorough reply.

 

Amen Tangster I totally agree.

 

Tangster your posts are always educational, always a great read!

 

I have only seen what I thought to be some ick spots couple of times on fish over all years of tank being up. Only stayed day or so and then disappeared. Might even have been some other kind of parasite.

Was once one of those great fears I think all new aquarium owners have. Especially if moving from FW. Now give it little thought.

Keep water params in range and make sure minimum stress on fish in tank (compatibility, room, and proper feeding) will greatly reduce ick risk. Also a short quarentine of new fish, primarily to let them rest up from long trip from wherever they came from before introducing to tank...Not due to fear of introducing ick. :-/ Just stress reduction.

Also having an active skunk cleaner shrimp and a neon blue goby in tank may offer some additonal protection.



Tangster says it all.




If you want more info...

Ichthyophthirius (ICK) ​

(Cryptocaryon irritans) ​

(“white spot” disease) ​

​

(About.com - Saltwater Ich (Cryptocaryon))


Ich is a highly contagious parasitic infestation caused by the protozoan Ichthyophthirius Multifillis and its saltwater counterpart Cryptocaryon Irritans.

The parasite burrows itself under the fish’s skin in order to feed and grow, causing skin irritations and osmoregulatory disturbances that allow secondary bacteria and/or fungi to enter the skin. It is notable that Ich alone is not fatal. Fatalities occur mainly through secondary infections.

In advanced cases, the parasite will attach to the gills, causing an interference with the oxygen carrying cells, thus depleting oxygen.

Symptoms of Ich include the well know ‘salt grain like’ white spots (Ich is often referred to as “white spot” disease). As the infection spreads other common symptoms are rubbing against decorations, breathing difficulties, loss of appetite and increased mucus layer (washed off slime coat), cloudy eyes, frayed fins, and abnormal swimming behavior.

Ich has to be present in the aquarium to cause an infestation. Frequently cited temperature fluctuations are not responsible; neither are other stress causing conditions alone or in combination.

The Ich parasite can be introduced by new arrivals of fish, or be dormant in the aquarium itself. Healthy fish can live with a balanced host–parasite relationship for a long time. The healthier the fish the more difficult it becomes for the parasite to re-produce, which in turn keeps their population under control.

New arrivals with a weak and unprepared immune system are extremely susceptible for the parasite and are ideal victims for parasitic infection.

The unexpected appearance of Ich without new arrivals is usually caused by deteriorating water parameters which weaken the fish’s immune system.

Excess nutrients, nitrates, fluctuating pH, ammonia, low dissolved oxygen content and other stress causing factors will lower the fish’s’ immune system and may lead to an outbreak which could have been avoided by good aquarium maintenance. Nevertheless the parasite has to be present in order for the disease to break out.

The life cycle of Ich includes 3 stages. The mature parasite (trophozoites) forms pustules in the skin in order to feed (visible as white spots). Once the pustule ruptures, the trophont settles at the bottom of the tank. Secreting a coating it forms a protective capsule (cyst). Within, the parasite performs a series of cell divisions creating hundreds of new cells (tomites) which are released and search for a new host.

There are about 300 tomites leaving the cyst. Tomites have to find a host within 3 days or they will die off. The complete parasitic life cycle ranges from 14 to 16 days. Higher temperatures accelerate the cycle while lower temperatures will extend the parasitic activities.

The three day duration of the tomite stage is the only stage in which the parasite is vulnerable and can be treated with medication. This limited vulnerability explains why it is necessary to repeat the treatment to assure that all parasites have been eliminated. Not completing the treatment due to no reoccurring symptoms (white spots, etc.) usually leads to a renewed outbreak as the parasite is in its burrowing and re-production stage at which the medication has no effect.

Left untreated, about 15% of the released tomites will find and occupy a new host. This rather small number nevertheless accumulates to a 10 fold increase of parasites per week.

All fish are vulnerable and pose as potential hosts. Some species are more, some are less susceptible, depending on the slime coat and overall health of the fish.

Ich in nature is very rare and without the problems known in aquariums and closed aquatic systems. Due to the close confinement, Ich exploits the conditions of captivity in which it can easily spread. Most fish have a particular nightly resting spot from which the parasite moves off to form the cyst (the cyst building trophonts and the tomites released from them occur at night). Once freed from the cyst the tomites find a host ready in waiting.

The quarantine tank or a fish dip is the best preventative measure to avoid introducing the parasites by aninfected newcomer.

Once Ich breaks out, the main tank has to be treated. Several treatment options are commercially available and have to be used as directed. Treatments should be chosen based on the set up as active ingredients contain copper, formalin or malachite green by themselves or in combination. These can and will pose significant risks for plants, invertebrates and reef systems. Copper, if overdosed, lowers the fish’s’ resistance to fight off diseases, and can cause damage to liver and kidney.

For salinity insensitive aquatic environments, slowly lowering the salinity to 1.009-1.010 (specific gravity) for 14 days will extinct the parasite.

For more delicate plant and reef setups, reef safe treatments not containing above compounds have to be used.

ICK Lifecycle​

​

An outbreak of serious ich will look like white grains of salt on the skin of your fish, from 0.3 to 1mm in diameter. Each individual spot is actually an adult parasite known as the trophont, which has been enveloped in the pus and tissue of the infected fish's skin and slime layer. Heavy infestations can be very dangerous if they reach the gills or cause secondary bacterial infections, so ich is definitely not a disease to be treated lightly. If allowed to progress to the point where the fish is very ragged in appearance and hanging near the surface, displaying a lot of respiratory distress, it can be fatal.
The white spots, however, only indicate one stage of ich (the only one that can be seen by the naked eye). After infecting the fish, the adult organism falls off into the gravel and becomes encysted in a free-living dormant stage known as a tomont. THIS CYST STAGE IS INVULNERABLE TO MEDICATIONS. This is the reason why a raise in temperature is suggested IN CONJUNCTION with ich treatments...it speeds up the life cycle and makes the stages that are treatable come around faster. If you do raise the temperature, do so very slowly so as not to stress the weak fish further.. raise it no more than 1-2 degrees every day, and do not allow this temperature to fluctuate. Also, consider the types of fish you are keeping... most tropicals can tolerate as high as 84-86 F, but most goldfish will start to languish in the high 70's, so don't push them any further.

Additional Info​

News from the Warfront with Cryptocaryon irritans (Part 1 of 5) by Terry Bartelme

Saltwater Ich and Garlic - Aquarium Fish Diseases Ick, By: Terry D. Bartelme

Aquarium.Net Feb 97 Diseases in Fish, By Shawn Prescot

Marine Ick Part I, Steven Pro

Marine Ick, Part II, Steven Pro

Symptoms of Stress & Disease

An Old Cure for an Old Disease (Fishlore.com)

Freshwater Ich, White Spot Disease, By Bob Fenner

Protozoan parasites. (Skeptical Aquarist)

How to Identify & Prevent Saltwater Ich (Cryptocaryon irritans) (Liveaquari.com)

"Om"

"Reef on"​

 

Just wanted to say thanks for all the great info. Ich cleared up just like you said in a few days and the squirrel fish is doing great!

Thank you!

 

Great news glblguy, Im glad to hear it is alive and swimming.